Dear Louis Vuitton, please put Grace in charge of menswear already!
The Wales Bonner ‘Horizon Blues’ SS23 collection is a wonderful evocation of ‘European heritage meets Afro Atlantic spirit’. But of special note are the pieces tailored by Old Burlington Street’s Anderson & Sheppard. The camel hair overcoat (serving Fran Lebowitz swagger), the cashmere dinner suit, the DB sleeveless jacket and trousers – pure perfection. (more…)
It’s a long time since I’ve seen denim menswear treated so creatively. And it’s good timing too. The AW22 collection by CSM graduate Juntae Kim muses on denim beyond workwear, with scalloped edges, corsetry structures, buckles, lacing and artfully slashed surfaces. It chimes with the less ordinary denim treatments seen in the SS22 collections at Louis Vuitton, Schiaparelli and Loewe (which I wrote about for Harrods magazine recently). (more…)
“I don’t come from where I’m supposed to come from. So I have to prove that this is design, that this is art, that this is valid.”
Virgil Abloh
Sad times in fashion. The news of Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing (from a private 2-year rare cancer illness) rocked the fashion world this week. But also created shock waves beyond. A pop culture icon whose influence stretched way past the boundaries of the catwalk, Virgil epitomised the modern-day Renaissance man who created product, music, happenings, communities and perhaps most importantly, the myth of the man himself.
Despite all the post-mortem plaudits, as a designer, he was polarising. (more…)
I’m excited to see what Camille Miceli will do for Emilio Pucci as its new artistic director.
Among her resume highlights: Her first internship was with Azzedine Alaïa. She worked as a publicist for Chanel. She worked with Raf Simons at Christian Dior, overseeing jewellery including the – can we say iconic? – double ball earring. And she also worked with Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton as creative director of accessories developing jewellery, shoes, bags, sunglasses, and more. Her plans for Pucci are apparently centred on “joy and well-being.”
Her first collection is expected in 2022. (more…)
