culture of fashion

On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)



The culture of fashion: what next for magazines?



Document Journal Amoako Boafo Marie Humbert

Out of crisis comes opportunity. We hope.

The Business of Fashion has a story on the future of fashion media, highlighting the struggles for magazines of operating with smaller ad revenues then ever.

There will for sure be casualties but those will likely have been coming for a while. There is just too much content out there and especially now, more short form video, memes, social media and digital newsletters than ever.

I expect the legacy players may go for reduced frequencies of print publications, both to alleviate pressure on printing businesses operating with reduced capacity and in response to market interest. (more…)



Escapism



Richard Avedon Nastassja Kinski and the serpent

A must-watch film if you’ve never seen it, the 1996 Richard Avedon documentary, Darkness and Light is pure escapism.

If you only have five minutes, watch the scene at around 21 minutes where Polly Mellen describes the legendary Nastassja Kinski Vogue shoot (above) involving a serpent’s kiss. Her storytelling is almost as dramatic as the shoot itself. (more…)



Things to see and do: spring 2020



Harold Feinstein 125th Street From Elevated Train, 1950. David Hill Gallery

HAROLD FEINSTEIN. I’ve loved street photography and street photographers ever since seeing an unforgettable Garry Winogrand exhibition at The Hayward as a student. (Some other faves: Tony Ray Jones, Weegee, Jamel Shabazz, Saul Leiter.) I always want to know what happens immediately after the moment of capture. (more…)