It’s men’s digital fashion month and couture week at the moment, so I’m trying to keep up with all the content. What I notice is that without the physical shows, it’s really all on the brands to keep the content coming on their various platforms. I missed the Prada menswear Live transmission, so I watched it on IG catch up instead. It was the first Raf-ccia joint menswear collection for Prada, following the womenswear debut last October.
ATMOSPHERE. The set design was great, with a Rem Koolhaas-designed texture-clash of marble, resin, plaster and faux fur in pastels contrasted with positive purple (surely the colour of the month). The edited video featured fast-paced young models interspersed with quick cutaways of energetic dancing, the kind of quirky, clubby touch we expect from Raf Simons’ influence, accompanied by Richie Hawtin’s equally pacy techno soundtrack. The pictures are below, but this show really deserves to be seen (and heard) in motion.
TEXTURE. As hinted at by the set dressing, texture was the overarching trend. In particular, touchy-feely comfort textures to compensate from a year of contactless living. The fuzzy mohairs, knitted onesies and jacquard leggings were jarring but will inevitable ‘trickle’ down into a general softness in men’s knitwear. Remember that the ‘edgy’ stuff Raf produces often becomes mainsteam several years later. (IMO those Bottega Puddle boots are a direct decendant of these Raf Simons Bunny boots).
OTT OUTERWEAR. Outerwear in weird materials is a Raf and Miuccia hallmark. I love the nubby pastel boucle coat and boxy hi-shine topcoats with their fluffy collars. And obviously, we have to have the XXL MA1s.
LOGO POUCHES. Logo-ed triangular nylon pouches attached to gloves and the backs of jackets were a fun styling touch for the hype generation. (I hope they’re detachable.)
TAILORING. Miuccia Prada historically hates pinstripe suiting, which is exactly why she chose to go ahead with it. “That’s the point of collaboration”, she said, talking about the yin-yang of hers and Raf’s creative process. Of course, these are subversive suits, worn with the sleeves pushed waaaaay up the arm. You might not wear your suit sleeves exactly like this but it plants the question; how can I deconstruct my formalwear?
Update: you can watch the show here, followed by the excellent Q&A of Raf and Miuccia answering students’ questions. I love the explanation of how the dancing happened…
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Prada menswear AW21
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