Amy Powney at Mother of Pearl always gives good reference. They frequently tend to music and youth culture, but not the obvious generic tropes of ‘punk’ or ‘grunge’ (#zzzzzz).
For example, for Mother of Pearl SS17, her main reference was New York Stories, the 1989 trilogy of short films by Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola and Woody Allen. Specifically the female characters, including over-indulged 9 year old Zoe in Coppola’s Life Without Zoe (written by a young Sofia Coppola) and Rosanna Arquette’s Paulette in Martin Scorsese’s Life Lessons. Sometimes those sorts of references look good on paper but don’t translate to an entire collection. But I thought this was one of Mother of Pearl’s most cohesive collections to date, with voluminous pearl-dotted jackets, raw-edged, drop-waist dresses, ruffled cocktail frocks and banana-shaped trousers that suggested eighties attitude without looking retro.
The overall styling was excellent, with shoes by Bionda Castana, bare, glowy skin offset by big red lips (smooshed for rebellious effect courtesy of MAC’s Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour) and even bigger hair. And it all looked completely commercial. Line it up on a rail and it’s ready to wear whether you get the filmic references or not.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Catwalk images via Mother of Pearl SS17
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