Trends

Merch watch: are you consuming culture as a performative act?



The Gentlewoman x Arket tee

Rachel Cusk and Zadie Smith have become, in effect, literary brands — once their names are removed from the context of a book’s cover and placed on a hat or a tote bag.” Terry Nguyen, New York Times.

The merch machine refuses to die. In fact, I would argue it’s only just getting started. The New York Times recently published this article on literary merch, explaining the relatively new popularity of #litcore caps (and totes and tees) that show allegiance to revered writers while telegraphing the wearer’s (perceived) intellectual superiority. The Guardian calls this “consuming culture as a performative act”, while comedian Dan Rosen simply calls it “liberal cringe” (ouch #guilty).

It’s also rampant in media, with mainstream and niche publications going all out on taste signallers. (more…)



Return of the Soho fashion bookshops



Idea Books London

Interesting to see Soho (London) getting its retail groove back.

I noticed it in the summer with Machine A mark II, Marc Jacobs’ Heaven and Aries (so trendy, I was too intimidated to go inside). Now the niche fashion booksellers are coming back.

Idea Books just announced it’s opening its Wardour Street space to the public. Previously ‘by appointment’ only, it’s expanding to take up a much larger chunk of the building, which is located in the epicentre of Soho. And Isabella Burley’s Climax Books has just opened in Wardour Mews (Thursday-Saturday). Dealing in collectible vintage books and avant-garde erotica respectively, they’re bringing bookish fashionistas back to the beating heart of the city.

In the days when Central Saint Martins was located in Charing Cross Road, all the fashion students would flock to Borders for their expensive style zines (often consumed FOC with a two-hour coffee in Starbs upstairs). (more…)



Good clothes



Saint Laurent SS24 womenswear

I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.

I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway. (more…)



(UPDATED) Shop the post: Peter Do x Banana Republic



UPDATE: THE COLLECTION JUST DROPPED. SHOP THE BEST PIECES BELOW.

Update on Peter Do x Banana Republic.

The collab got a soft launch on the Peter Do Paris runway (above and below) last week and it’s looking pretty good.

There are 28 pieces, of which this trench looks like a best-seller, along with the patch pocket silk shirt and camel trouser suit. The pleated coat dress-y number looks like the showstopper, while the pleated skirt-and-trouser layered ensemble has its own post-punk appeal. (more…)