Trends

On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. Both feature their designers discussing the thought and making process of their collections. Berluti SS21 especially comes to life with Kris van Assche talking to ceramic artist Brian Rochefort about colour, patina and design. It really makes you appreciate true luxury. (Watch it here.)

Below: Berluti SS21

Berluti ss21
Berluti ss21


Berluti ss21

Meanwhile, Jonathan Anderson sent out miniature ‘shows in a box’ to the press who were watching the ‘shows’ from home. This is what they do with influencers. Send visual toys for them to dutifully display on their Instagram. The press obediently followed suit, promping followers to go to the website and view.

Anderson’s Loewe men’s SS21 collection is beautiful without the ‘noise’ of show-biz. He flagged basket craft, shibori techniques and tapestry, which have been translated into architectural shapes that were displayed on mannequins in a quiet studio setting. It works well, but better for having the accompanying explanation. The trench coats and shibori pieces are my favourites, along with the bags. I actually thought this was the women’s pre-collection rather than men’s, which goes to show that gendered clothing is kinda pointless. (Watch the video here.)


Below: Loewe SS21 menswear

Loewe SS21 menswear




Loewe SS21 menswear
Loewe SS21 menswear

I wonder if it was a huge anti-climax for the designers pressing the go-live button on their content compared to the headlines and air kisses of Fashion Week? Or if they did it on a Zoom call with their team?!

Another question is how trends will translate to the consumer. As we’ve seen before, when designers design clothes to be viewed by a screen, they go for bright colours and statement makers. But as shoppers have less money to spend and fewer places to go in the coming months, will they want these bold pieces, or functional classics? Perhaps by spring When All This Is Over, we’ll be gagging for colour and excitement again. For now, my guess is we’ll see a similar pattern as before; statement pieces for ‘runway’, and the more wearable versions for retail.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Berluti; SS21 Loewe men’s 2021
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Buy it now: wellness sandals for every budget



Jean Shrimpton by Bailey 1972

I hope you enjoyed my shorts and sweaters post. If you missed it, it’s here.

We’re now in peak shorts season and with that… sandals. ‘Wellness sandals’ are still going strong, either the footbed versions or the retro pancake-flat leather variety. Did you know you should vary your heel heights to optimise foot health? I was told this years ago in my Converse-everyday wearing days, and obviously didn’t listen. But it’s true, you should vary between flat and elevated, to give your feet the best workout.

Anyway, the sale notifications have started to ping so now is a good time to shop. Whether you’re into Birkenstocks, Tevas, Ancient Greeks, or M&S equivalents, there are lots of sensible sandals to accompany the shorts.

While Birkenstock Arizonas* were the indoor shoe of lockdown spring, I also like them as a smart outdoor sandal with a classic red or magenta pedi. (Side note: if you’re looking for the best foot file in the world, get this Margaret Dabbs one.) I also like the minimalist Birkenstock Madrid slide with its clean single bar silhouette. The cork sole* (£56) is the old school version, and the all-black*  (£220) is the luxe version. The one-colour cross-strap Sienna slide (£310) is also very appealing in black.

M&S has quite a few classic footbed sandals around the £20-£30 with some on sale now. I like these M&S Collection navy leather ones (currently £18) or slightly jazzier, these animal-print leather sandals (currently £36). Or for something super-nostalgic, there are these flat leather sandals in tan and red (currently £23.60).

Church’s seems to be dipping a toe in the footbed pool with these rugged multi strap sandals, while Suicoke* from Japan is the chic version of a Teva sandal with its moulded footbed but more refined silhouette. I prefer the thinner soled variety to the chunky platform ones.

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST. (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Jean Shrimpton by David Bailey
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman



Positive beauty: Typology skincare



Typology skincare

I love the sound (and look) of the new-to-the-UK ingredient-lite skincare brand, Typology. Anyone tried it?

Founded by the guy behind Made.com furniture, it specialises in simplifying skincare products by using as few ingredients as possible. Here’s his explainer on the merits of the minimalist approach from The Telegraph (paywall). “The more ingredients you add, the more unstable the formulation becomes, so then you have to add anti-fungal and anti-bacterial stuff…and because it starts to look unappealing, you add colouring. And you keep upping the claims, and the list of ingredients gets longer. Some of it may be harmless, bur frankly haven’t been researched, and some may have a negative impact on our bodies. For sure a lot don’t seem to be there for any good reason.” (more…)



Wear it now: shorts, not sweats



The summer shorts edit

“It’s time to pick ourselves up and start again. In shorts, not sweats.”

Wise words from Vanessa Friedman this week, which I’m 100% on board with. Although, full disclosure, I never joined the leggings and sweats WFH clan anyway. I just couldn’t go there!

But my shorts post from last year did really well so I’ve done an updated edit. The aesthetic hasn’t changed much; classic tailored cottons or linens worn with a sockless Derby*, gym shoe, or squared-off ballerina slingback*. Plus a superfine tee or vest on top (if warm enough), a roomy shirt* if you prefer semi-formal, or a fine gauge knit* if there’s a nip in the air (with a heavier one to knot over the shoulders). (more…)