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On my radar: opera pumps



Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley in opera pumps

This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps.

WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by black sheer silk socks (and sock suspenders!). The classic variety popularised by the Edwardians is made from black patent leather, although since the 1950s highly polished calfskin has also been an option. How is an opera pump different to a ballet pump? To me, it has a slightly slimmer profile, a more solid heel, is cut higher on the vamp and finished with a grosgrain bow. (more…)

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Shop the post: scarves, scarves and more f***ing scarves



Fantastic Man scarf

Scarves are underrated. We don’t big them up nearly enough. But Fantastic Man (above and below) has recognised this oversight and given a whole feature to the combined joy and pragmatism of this unsung wardrobe hero. (more…)

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Trend report: What to wear for AW24



Miu Miu tweed sweater

Shops are back! Cash is cool! Corporate-core is a vibe! It’s like the 2020s never happened lol. Sweats, leggings and Crocs have been demoted and tailoring and tactile tops have regained their position in the corner office for AW24. And with the global slowdown of luxury, we’re also witnessing the demise of loud logos on clothes and accessories. Instead, discreet luxury totes whisper subtle brand codes (the Toteme ‘T’!) and it’s grocery stores and ‘hypebeast snacks’ that are the new entry-level status signifiers. Oh, and high-end lipstick is the eternal ‘affordable luxury’ treat for uncertain times. Because some things never change… (more…)

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On my radar: Reluxe x Madewell



Reluxe x Madewell

Last week I had the pleasure of meeting Reluxe founder Clare Richardson briefly at a Reluxe x Sana Jardin breakfast event in the Reluxe store. Clare is better known to me through her styling work for publications including Vogue, Holiday and Wall Street Journal magazine, very much in the ‘gentlewoman style’ vein of classic but sexy dressing.

During her talk, Clare made the point that women founders are natural multi-hyphenates, which suits her as a freelance stylist but also explains her segue into founding a luxury resale business. She has smartly chosen to use her top tier fashion industry contacts to foster collabs with relevant brands, the latest being Madewell. (more…)

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