Music

Contemporary Wardrobe, thirty years of street style



contemporary wardrobe - The Horse Hospital

It’s not often you find out about events like Thursday’s talk at the Horse Hospital. Luckily for me I read about it on Style Bubble just in the nick of time and got my ticket request in fast. Alas, not fast enough as the next day an email pinged back saying the event was massively over-subscribed and entry wasn’t guaranteed, but to turn up anyway and they’d try to accomodate everyone.

We arrived with time to spare, which was good as it afforded us a nice fashion show in the form of the arriving punters. Having expected a pride of pushy fashion students and a few Hoxton hipsters I was happy to see a majority of veteran London dandies and friendly faces from the last forty years of fashion and clubbing. We had quite a lot of fun playing ‘guess who he is’ until the doors opened and we were all ushered in.

The Contemporary Wardrobe - The Horse Hospital

The Contemporary Wardrobe at the Horse Hospital in Russell Square is celebrating its thirtieth year as London’s quite astonishing fashion and street-style archive. The event consisted of a very cool fashion show, rare footage of a Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood interview together from 1993 and a talk between journalist Paul Gorman and Contemporary Wardrobe’s owner Roger K Burton. We heard about Burton’s adventures in fashion from his early mod days growing up in the Midlands to outfitting the cast and 300 extras from Quadrophenia, to designing Vivienne Westwood’s World’s End shop.

Roger K Burton's Contemporary Wardrobe - The Horse Hospital
Horse Hospital Contemporary wardrobe Archive

After the talk, there were drinks and chat as well as lots of photo-taking of the exhibited skinhead, punk, hippie and rocker outfits. I managed to buttonhole Paul Gorman, who gave me the lowdown on the assembled fashion faces who included Mr and Mrs Terry de Havilland, Topman design director Gordon Richardson (how dapper is this man, Phillip Green, please take some styling tips from him!), Soho suitmaker Mark Powell, Max Karie from Shop at Maison Bertaux and Marian Buckley from FUK.

The Contemporary Wardrobe - The Horse Hospital

A word about Paul Gorman. If you’re interested in the history of music-influenced street style, I highly recommend his book The Look, Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion, featuring never-seen-before (by me anyway) photos and insightful interviews with key fashion players. Check out his blog here.

WORDS AND IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl
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Berlin Bromley, a punk memoir



Berlin Bromley by Bertie Marshall
It’s no secret that I’m a bookaholic and I love reading oral histories and biographies about underground movements, pop culture and subcultures. Off the top of my head I can enthusiastically recommend Please Kill Me by Legs McNeil, Edie an American Biography by Jean Stein, The Last Party by Anthony Haden Guest* and Days in the Life: Voices from the English Underground 1961-71 by Jonathon Green as fascinating, insightful reads. One I hadn’t heard of is Berlin Bromley by Bertie Marshall, a book I read about on this blog.

Marshall was one of the Bromley Contingent, a group of suburbanites which included Siousie Sioux amongst their number who were key players in the early London punk movement. This book documents his growing up in gloomy seventies suburbia and the drug-addled years that followed. (Not a lighthearted read then…)

*Actually this one is rather hard work as the story (about the rise and fall of New York’s nightlife in the 70s) does have so many twists, turns and characters but it’s a worthwhile read to dip into and get a feel for the hedonistic goings-on of the era.

Pic: http://www.honeyee.com/blog/



Wednesday gigwatch #1







I haven’t been to a gig for ages so was quite pleased to see that both Wendy James and The Plastiscines were playing last Wednesday night. Wendy James was my style crush when I was growing up, she was a kind of sexier, poppier version of Courtney Love in terms of her pretty-meets-punk look and though her band Transvision Vamp was dismissed as mere eye candy for eighties adolescents, I’m not ashamed to say I actually still love all their tunes.

Her new incarnation is The Racine World, similar guitar-led songs and the signature gravelly voice but rougher around the edges. For some reason, the gig was moved at the eleventh hour from Astoria2 to Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes. A weird choice of venue (people were actually bowling while the bands were on, like…huh?) but rather cosy and good for getting a front-of-the-stage view. As usual, I was as interested in the audience as the band…how breathtaking is this red-lipped angel with perfectly matched belt?



Film news: Control




Victor at Melanthos reminded me how excited I am at the imminent arrival of the Joy Division film Control. I’m more of a New Order fan than Joy Division but I can guarantee even if you’re not familiar with their music, the film will be beautifully shot as it’s directed by Anton Corbijn.

Control is actually a biopic about Joy Division’s 23-year old lead singer Ian Curtis who committed suicide on the eve of Joy Division’s first U.S. tour. It’s based on the book Touching From a Distance, by Curtis’ wife, Deborah (which I still haven’t managed to buy).

The release date is 5th October – don’t miss this one.