12 August, 2020

Quote of the day: Douglas Keeve on Unzipped

Unzipped Isaac Mizrahi

“There were all these small designers who were kind of mad geniuses doing what they wanted, and it was about the beauty of [fashion]. And it went from creativity to commerce; now it’s all commerce—it’s all about numbers and [the] bottom line and focus groups. That’s what drives fashion now. It’s different worlds. It’s just different. It doesn’t mean there aren’t great people out there; it means that the business of fashion has superseded the art.” (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Fashion shows, Films, News brands, Business of Fashion, culture of fashion, Douglas Keeve, fashion shows, films, Isaac Mizrahi, quote of the day, Unzipped

7 August, 2020

Louis Vuitton menswear summer 2021 goes ‘seasonless’

Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 Virgil Abloh

An interesting concept from Virgil Abloh for his Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 collection.

Shown in Shanghai this week, his ‘seasonless’ strategy mixes past looks with new on the same runway. “This is debuting my future format of shows,” he told WWD. “We as humans want new things, we always want to go forward; the newest, fastest, shiniest things…[But] if my collection I debuted in January I believed in, by the time it gets to July, I still believe in it. It’s not that it’s so old that it can’t be seen ever again. I’m questioning that system by proposing that my collections are all as one.” Fair play! (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Trends Louis Vuitton, menswear, SS21, trends, Virgil Abloh, Walter van Beirendonck

14 July, 2020

On digital fashion weeks, craft and context

Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, Technology, Trends Berluti, Business of Fashion, culture of fashion, Fashion Week, how it's made, Jonathan Anderson, Kris Van Assche, Loewe, SS21, trends

16 June, 2020

So how did Digital London Fashion Week go?

Nicholas Daley AW20

Digital LFW was overall a bit of an anti-climax. Unlike many, I don’t ridicule the British Fashion Council for it. I applaud them for trying in #unprecedented times. The main criticisms of the new ‘digital hub’ format were that the content wasn’t exciting enough, there were too few new collections, the panel discussions were too focused on the same topic (Covid) and panellists were ‘the usual suspects’. (more…)