Fashion shows

Lemaire SS23 highlights



Lemaire ss23

What a week it’s been in the UK. If you’re craving calm and serenity after the last few days of chaos, please join me in appreciating the SS23 collection from Lemaire. Ahhhhh that feels better.

There was quite a bit of model-audience interaction at last weeks’ menswear shows. Lemaire also had an element of this with the models posing as everyday people just hanging out doing not very much, while the press and visitors mingled among them wondering which were the models and which were the guests. (In a case of role reversal, the peacocks were the watchers and the understated androgynes were the watched.) (more…)



First look at Wales Bonner SS23



Wales Bonner SS23

Dear Louis Vuitton, please put Grace in charge of menswear already!

The Wales Bonner ‘Horizon Blues’ SS23 collection is a wonderful evocation of ‘European heritage meets Afro Atlantic spirit’. But of special note are the pieces tailored by Old Burlington Street’s Anderson & Sheppard. The camel hair overcoat (serving Fran Lebowitz swagger), the cashmere dinner suit, the DB sleeveless jacket and trousers – pure perfection. (more…)



Culture of Fashion: a look inside Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris



Yves Saint Laurent by Andy Warhol

A brief work trip to Paris a couple of weeks ago allowed me to experience the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Avenue Marceau, the former premises of YSL couture. Part of the 60th anniversary celebrations of Yves Saint Laurent, the latest exhibition, ‘Yves Saint Laurent au 5, avenue Marceau’ focuses on the archives and know-how of the designer and his coterie of technical specialists and as such is just a joy for process nerds. (more…)



Camille Miceli’s dopamine-drenched collection for Emilio Pucci has dropped



Pucci by Camille Miceli aw22

Emilio Pucci has just landed in its latest guise envisioned by new artistic director Camille Miceli.

Launched with a series of ‘activations’ in Capri to cement its legacy as a lifestyle brand, the see-now-buy-now collection’s dolce vita vibe gels well with the opening up of travel and tourism. ““It has to be about enjoying life, especially after all we’ve gone through,” Miceli told Vogue. (more…)