6 October, 2023

Good clothes

Saint Laurent SS24 womenswear

I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.

I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 1 Comment Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, News, Trends Carven, designers, Louise Trotter, Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent, SS24

23 September, 2023

Prada SS24 – opposites attract

Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 was a fabulous hybrid of utility toughness and romantic flou. And I’m very much here for it. The same iridescent gloop we saw for the menswear show oozed from the ceiling giving us a kind of syrupy veil to look through.

I always love Prada’s show styling. Here, I liked the oversized Barbour-eque jackets and see-through skirts, and the tucked-in trouser suits with supersized sleeves and unbuttoned flappy cuffs. This look was especially sharp in the shorts suit paired with chiselled Derbys and ankle socks, although I fear it will be annoyingly omnipresent on the nepo-model set – Hayley, Kendall – sigh. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Beauty, Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, News, Trends beauty, Helmut Lang, make-up, Prada, SS24, trends

12 September, 2023

Trend report: what to wear for AW23

Johnny Dufort for T Magazine

AW23 is emphatically female-focussed, kicking off with supermodel mania – that Vogue cover, the Apple series and a Linda Evangelista book – and continuing with a slew of women-championing exhibitions. We’ve also got the big Phoebe Philo reveal to come, as well as a focus on revivalist classic fashion (aka gentlewoman style). For this you can easily shop your closet, or consider buying pre-loved – the quality may be better and so may the price. “The connection between instability in the economy and consumers’ desire for classic, quality pieces that retain value is certainly at play, as is the cultural zeitgeist,” Kelly McSweeney, senior merchandising manager at The RealReal, told WWD. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 1 Comment Books, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Events, Fashion shows, Films, Magazines, Online shopping, Shopping, Trends Alaïa, AW23, Banana Republic, books, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, exhibitions, films, Gucci, L'Etiquette, Loewe, Maison Margiela, Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Officine Générale, Peter Do, photography, Prada, Sacai, shopping, Sofia Coppola, Steven Meisel, Taylor Lorenz, Uniqlo, vintage, Wales Bonner, Zara

6 September, 2023

The culture of fashion: kilty pleasures

Le Kilt

It’s 30 years since Marc Jacobs’ fateful Perry Ellis grunge collection, so a good time for one revival in particular. This autumn I’m excited for the return of the kilt, the old money staple that straddles childhood nostalgia and tradition (think school uniforms and the Queen off-duty) and pop culture subversion (70s punk, 90s grunge, Cher from Clueless).

This season, Burberry has cleverly revived it as a youthful house code in an effort to ramp up Daniel Lee’s modern Brit vision. (more…)