Business of fashion

Rumoured: Louise Trotter to Bottega?



Carven SS25 by Louise Trotter

I’m exhausted and a bit bored by the designer merry-go-round rumour mill, are you?

But please indulge these few updates as they’re personally of interest to me. First, it sounds like Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy is about to be named as the new artistic director of Chanel. (more…)



Trend report: What to wear for AW24



Miu Miu tweed sweater

Shops are back! Cash is cool! Corporate-core is a vibe! It’s like the 2020s never happened lol. Sweats, leggings and Crocs have been demoted and tailoring and tactile tops have regained their position in the corner office for AW24. And with the global slowdown of luxury, we’re also witnessing the demise of loud logos on clothes and accessories. Instead, discreet luxury totes whisper subtle brand codes (the Toteme ‘T’!) and it’s grocery stores and ‘hypebeast snacks’ that are the new entry-level status signifiers. Oh, and high-end lipstick is the eternal ‘affordable luxury’ treat for uncertain times. Because some things never change… (more…)



Quote of the day: Kate Phelan



Kate Phelan by Paul Wetherell

“I do think we are starting to feel ecom fatigue. We are leaning more towards the desire to have an experience and take time and pleasure in the discovery of new and exciting brands. We live our lives very differently today. We look at our feeds constantly, bombarded by imagery and products to buy. So maybe we need to be more aware as to what people actually do with their time and put the personality of the store at the forefront of the experience.”
Kate Phelan on reviving Harvey Nichols* in her new role as creative director, FT (more…)



Inbox hero: why fashion founder Substacks are the new influencers



Amy Smilovic

It’s only taken oh, circa 15 years, but fashion brand founders (and creative directors) have finally twigged that they are their own best brand ambassadors.

From their first baby steps on Instagram, when the likes of Linda V Wright, Nili Lotan and Tibi founder Amy Smilovic (above) showed their faces and styling prowess, pro tastemakers have gifted their customers a ‘real way’ insight into clever wardrobe building, versatile styling and non-hard-sell (yet paradoxically seductive) selling.

And now they go even better. Substack is proving the perfect platform for sharing not just fashion how-tos but other lifestyle recommendations – from travel to food to business know-how. (more…)