Business of fashion

Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity. (more…)



The Toscani effect



Benetton 1984

Farewell Oliviero Toscani, a brilliant photographer and art director who changed the world through his audacious activism dressed as fashion advertising.

I became aware of him in the 1980s via his vibrant fashion shoots for Benetton using groups of racially diverse, often street cast models in simple studio settings, styled in layers upon layers by (my old boss) Caroline Baker. (more…)



The culture of fashion: Alaïa for foodies and bibliophiles



Alaia Violet Cakes Bond Street London

Just after New Year I treated myself to a banana bread and coffee date at the new Violet Cakes cafe in the New Bond Street Alaïa store. Food and fashion have been forging an alliance for some time and I was reminded that Azzedine Alaïa was a natural instigator of this idea as far back as the 1980s.

Unlike other luxury fashion houses with their ultra brand-coded cakes and confectioneries (hello Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami cakes) this is a somewhat more wholesome approach. The food is consumed round an aluminium communal table nodding to the original spirit of Azzedine Alaïa himself, famous for inviting models, seamstresses, editors and even passing VIP clients to join the home-made feast at the studio table. (more…)



Polly Mellen remembered



Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)