Brands

Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26



Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)

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What’s the surprise? JW Anderson’s retail redux



JW Anderson Brewer Street

It might be my age and the time of year (nesting is calling!) but I’m a bit more excited for fashion’s lifestyle news than adding more clothes to my wardrobe. (Yes, really!)

This week sees the newly refurbed JW Anderson store in Brewer Street, overflowing beautifully merchandised with Jonathan Anderson’s mix of knitwear, loafer bags, Wedgwood Jasperware and Mackintosh oak stools. Later in the year we’ll see his vision for a new store in Pimlico Road (home of spendy antique shops and World of Interior-style stores). (more…)

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On my radar: Soshiotsuki



Soshiostuki ss26

Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.

Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.

To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)

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Quote of the day: Rick Owens



Rick Owens and Michele Lamy Harrods magazine

“I wear a coat with a very precise shoulder. I wear platform boots. I’m telegraphing that I want to contribute something a little bit more precise and formal. Formality implies politeness, and politeness implies being kind. So that’s my little effort.”

Rick Owens discussing his ‘airport fashion’ look in Harrods magazine. The accompanying Rick-n-Michèle shoot is suitably eccentric too. Michèle Lamy sipping from her Harrods mug is peak fabulosity. (more…)

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