One of the best shows I saw for SS21 was Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s Kenzo collection. Inspired by beekeepers and their utilitarian outfits, the show reflected the social distanced ‘Contagion’ times with incredible headgear and hazmat-style all-encasing outfits fashioned from classic Kenzo florals.
I have a bit of a thing for reveal-conceal headgear, so the hats in particular were my standouts. But the whole show video is gorgeous – do watch! Tragically, it’s just been announced that Kenzo is letting Oliveria Baptista go after only two years at the LVMH-owned brand. Hopefully he’ll get snapped up soon… (more…)
With beauty consumption at an all-time high, it’s no surprise to see an explosion of beauty books on the market. Last year saw much anticipate guides from Caroline Hirons* and Funmi Fetto*, and it feels like we’re going to see more variety over the coming year or two. (more…)
Latest update on beauty ingredient, yuzu fruit. Since I mentioned it in my spring trend round up, the Japanese citrus has cropped up in a summer fragrance and a radiance boosting foundation.
The fragrance first. Louis Vuitton’s ‘On the Beach‘ (£200, above and below) is part of its Les Colognes line (colognes but with eau de parfum concentration) and combines a top juicy note of yuzu (the note you smell first), with a herby cocktail of thyme, rosemary, pink pepper, cloves and cypress, plus a floral neroli note. It’s designed to smell subtly coastal rather than full-on beachy (despite the name). Fragrantica has some early reviews here.(more…)
Fashion week is officially all year long now. We’ve just seen another spurt of shows – from Celine, Gucci and Bottega Veneta (they had an event in a club in Berlin, while the rest of the city’s in a strict lockdown, and allegedly hired Soho House for the afterparty, kicking out existing residents – not cool!) – while other brands are doing smaller scale ‘activations’ and releasing their look books.
I’m very much into Bode at the moment and its unique way of telling stories through textiles. These Bode AW21 looks have the nostalgic charm of early Alessandro Michele for Gucci mixed with a Wes Anderson naivety without going full-on costume. It feels more real to me. (more…)