Chanel’s press day was something of an anti climax. Last season (ie this season, spring-summmer) was all futuristic perspex and vinyl. The autumn winter offering didn’t have much of a theme but I did pick up on a white patent Beatle boot – so clearly the 60s theme does continue. Other than the fur earmuffs, scarves and ski gloves (yawn) the big story was quilted chain strap bags. It’s the turn of jewel brights and primary colours so think tomato red, turquoise, yellow and orange plus a rather special silver mesh chain-strap bag. If you’re over the classic chain-strap bag you might prefer the vintage-look minaudieres. Of course, you can’t auctually put anything IN them, but hey, why would you want to do that?
Levis invited me to their ‘new fits’ presentation last week. They launch in June and I don’t have pics but it’s all good. I liked their 471 higher wait skinny jeans. They’re not an extreme ‘fashion’ high waist but just sit on the natural waistline, yet since we’re so used to hipsters it’s a style that looks new. The super-sophisticated dense black wash was my favourite. Then there’s the 770 bow leg jean. It looks vastly better on the body than on the hanger and the idea is it’s cut to deliberately scrunch up at the hem. But the standout pieces for me were the dresses. Yes, Levi’s is stepping away from the jeans –woo hoo! These cool babies launch in August so keep your eyes peeled.
So you think Kipling is all naff bags with a sad monkey keyring? No way Jose, ex-Celine designer Isabelle Cheron is now on board as creative director so next season is all about satin-nylon holdalls a la Longchamp and printed velvet Le Sportsac stylee. Kipling’s growing up and I’m behind them 100%! (PS Did you know the monkeys all have names and are named after the staff who work there…?)
I was invited to a preview this morning of the V & A’s New York Fashion Now exhibition which opens tomorrow. It celebrates the new names that have emerged in American fashion in the five-year period from 1999-2004. I have to say it’s not the most dynamic exhibition. It’s in the smaller gallery and all the exhibits are behind glass. Some film footage, designers sketches or even exciting music could have been employed to give it more drama but it’s all very clean, stark and simple.
Alongside the likes of Proenza Schouler, Behnaz Sarafpour and Zac Posen are lesser known labels like Mary Ping (great name!)and Costello Tagliapietra (breathtaking drapy jersey gowns). Some of the terminology confused me though. Designers are grouped in sections called things like Sportswear Chic, Atelier and Avant-garde. OK, ‘avant-garde’ I get but I’m sorry, how can you call Derek Lam and Proenza Schouler ‘sportswear’? I know US sportswear isn’t the same as UK sportswear (to us sportswear is a shell suit, to them it’s smart separates) but this is luxury dressing at its most formal!
It was interesting to see representation by Cloak and Miguel Adrover, two brilliantly original but short-lived labels that didn’t survive the post 9/11 economic downturn. If you’re a fashion student or really into the US fashion scene this is worth a look. If not, get the accompanying book New York Fashion written by the curator Sonnet Stanfill. It goes into more depth than the exhibition and is a great deal more visually satisfying. New York Fashion Now, 17 April – 2 September 2007, FREE
Websites store cookies to enhance functionality and personalise your experience. You can manage your preferences, but blocking some cookies may impact site performance and services.
Essential cookies enable basic functions and are necessary for the proper function of the website.
Name
Description
Duration
Cookie Preferences
This cookie is used to store the user's cookie consent preferences.
30 days
These cookies are needed for adding comments on this website.
Name
Description
Duration
comment_author
Used to track the user across multiple sessions.
Session
comment_author_email
Used to track the user across multiple sessions.
Session
comment_author_url
Used to track the user across multiple sessions.
Session
Statistics cookies collect information anonymously. This information helps us understand how visitors use our website.
Google Analytics is a powerful tool that tracks and analyzes website traffic for informed marketing decisions.
Contains information related to marketing campaigns of the user. These are shared with Google AdWords / Google Ads when the Google Ads and Google Analytics accounts are linked together.
90 days
__utma
ID used to identify users and sessions
2 years after last activity
__utmt
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests
10 minutes
__utmb
Used to distinguish new sessions and visits. This cookie is set when the GA.js javascript library is loaded and there is no existing __utmb cookie. The cookie is updated every time data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
30 minutes after last activity
__utmc
Used only with old Urchin versions of Google Analytics and not with GA.js. Was used to distinguish between new sessions and visits at the end of a session.
End of session (browser)
__utmz
Contains information about the traffic source or campaign that directed user to the website. The cookie is set when the GA.js javascript is loaded and updated when data is sent to the Google Anaytics server
6 months after last activity
__utmv
Contains custom information set by the web developer via the _setCustomVar method in Google Analytics. This cookie is updated every time new data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
2 years after last activity
__utmx
Used to determine whether a user is included in an A / B or Multivariate test.
18 months
_ga
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gali
Used by Google Analytics to determine which links on a page are being clicked
30 seconds
_ga_
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gid
ID used to identify users for 24 hours after last activity
24 hours
_gat
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests when using Google Tag Manager
1 minute
Marketing cookies are used to follow visitors to websites. The intention is to show ads that are relevant and engaging to the individual user.
Pinterest Tag is a web analytics service that tracks and reports website traffic.
This cookie is set by X to identify and track the website visitor. Registers if a users is signed in the X platform and collects information about ad preferences.
2 years
personalization_id
Unique value with which users can be identified by X. Collected information is used to be personalize X services, including X trends, stories, ads and suggestions.
2 years
external_referer
Our Website uses X buttons to allow our visitors to follow our promotional X feeds, and sometimes embed feeds on our Website.
