Trends for AW14 from London Fashion Week – in partnership with Swatch*

Burberry-Prorsum-craft-handpainted-AW14

So London Fashion Week is done and dusted (Do check out my daily highlights HERE, HERE, HERE and HERE) but I’m not quite finished yet. As part of my partnership with Swatch, I’m ending on this roundup of forthcoming AW14 trends. You can also head over to the Swatch Facebook page to watch the videos we filmed at Somerset House…

Silhouettes are sculptural, anti-fit but decidedly feminine
The Balenciaga-esque structured silhouette that has ebbed and flowed for many a season is thriving for AW14. We saw it in standaway coats and jackets, full, stiff skirts, boxy tunic tops and luxurious oversized knits. These pieces may sound masculine but they come in rich colours and lightweight fabrics as well as being printed and embellished to within an inch of their lives. I loved J.W Anderson’s angular darted dresses, Roksanda Ilincic’s super-sized skirts and Mother Of Pearl’s bomber jacket-coat hybrid…

BELOW: J.W ANDERSON/ROKSANDA ILINCIC/MOTHER OF PEARL
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MOTHER OF PEARL AW14 SHOW LONDON

Outerwear is heavy-weight, multi textured and cape-shaped
The Brits were born to do outerwear brilliantly and with Burberry, Hunter Original and Belstaff all showing on the official schedule, we were treated to proper, functional coats with major design credentials. Layered textures are a common thread, as are patchwork furs from the more glam designers (Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop both showed them). Rain capes and ponchos are also going to be big, which pleases me no end as I love a rain cape. Christopher Raeburn’s printed ones were the uniform of the Amex concierges at Somerset House, while Burberry’s blanket capes were monogrammed with the models’ initials.

BELOW: ROKSANDA ILINCIC/BURBERRY PRORSUM/HUNTER ORIGINAL
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Burberry-monogrammed-blanket
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Special pieces that are hyper crafted and made in Britain
We have also seen plenty of painstaking hand crafting this London Fashion Week, from Sibling’s extreme knitwear to Mary Katrantzou’s labour-intensive beaded scout badges and Peter Pilotto’s multi-textured sweaters. These are expensive but they’re considered special pieces to save for. At Burberry Prorsum, trench coats were hand painted in a nod to the Bloomsbury art group and shearling coats had sections cut into them. And at Mulberry, where Cara Delevingne launched her own multi-purpose backpack, the high prices were justified with the reminder that they’re made in the UK where home-grown expertise is worth investing in.

BELOW: PETER PILOTTO/MARY KATRANTZOU/MULBERRY/BURBERRY PRORSUM
Peter-Pilotto-AW14-Disneyrollergirl Mary-Katrantzou-LFW-AW14-Disneyrollergirl
Mulberry-Cara-Delevingne-AW14-Disneyrollergirl Burberry-AW14-Disneyrollergirl

Talking to the inner teen
Alongside the luxe sophistication there’s a parallel thread of unadulterated teen rebellion. Brits do this well (we practically invented youth culture) and the result was fun, fabulous and sometimes bitter-sweet. The fun stuff came from Ashish’s disco kids, House of Holland’s wayward debutantes and Nasir Mazhar’s clubbers. Meadham Kirchhoff’s vision was romantic and rainbow-hued, as was Marques’Almeida’s (dedicated to Patti smith’s book ‘Just Kids’). Topshop Unique gave us up-all-night country ravers while Sophia Webster’s noughties teens were inspired by Paris Hilton’s hard-candy glamour…

BELOW: TOPSHOP UNIQUE/MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF/HOUSE OF HOLLAND
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Art and fashion continue to converge
With the BFC NEWGEN shows staged at Tate Modern, it’s natural to note the ongoing syncing of art with fashion. Burberry was inspired by the Bloomsbury artists and their Charleston home, painting directly onto coats and carpet bags. Jonathan Saunders’s oversized tailoring reminded me of cubism, while a complex collage aesthetic spread across Peter Pilotto and Michael Van Der Ham. April sees the arrival of Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs at Tate Modern and I felt the inspiration come early from Blue Farrier’s colourful splashes for Issa…

BELOW: ISSA/JONATHAN SAUNDERS/MICHAEL VAN DER HAM/BURBERRY PRORSUM
Issa-AW14-matisse-Disneyrollergirl Jonathan-Saunders-2-AW14-Disneyrollergirl
Michael-Van-Der-Ham-AW14-Disneyrollergirl Burberry-Prorsum-handpainted-AW14-Disneyrollergirl

Accessories are playful and tactile
Accessories this week have been playful, unexpected and sometimes surreal. Furry textures have been popular, with tactile fluff proffered by Marques’Almeida (in bags and shoes), Simone Rocha’s fuzzy footwear and Whistles’ oddball styling trick – hotel toweling slippers with socks. In fact, socks are a must, both with youthful brands and classic ones. At Fashion East, Louise Alsop’s models wore laddered ankle socks with Superga sneakers while Margaret Howell’s wore black calf length socks with sensible mid-heels. The most playful accessories came from Christopher Kane, Sophia Webster and Anya Hindmarch. Carving a niche for kitsch luxury, Webster’s power-pastel heels and pop clutches still have plenty of mileage. (And they chime nicely with Swatch’s sweetie-themed ‘Pastry Chefs’ watches – as sported by me this season…) Meanwhile, Anya Hindmarch’s famous tote bags and pochettes got a punchy upgrade with supermarket-themed graphics in happy primary colours. Big news for Aw14 is Christopher Kane’s first leathergoods line. It incorporates ‘heritage’ motifs from his early collections, hence the safety buckle detail and sharp neon accents…

BELOW: ANYA HINDMARCH x 2/CHRISTOPHER KANE x 2/SOPHIA WEBSTER/SWATCH x 2
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Colours are saccharine sweet, paintbox-bright or dangerously toxic

The week started with an abundance of toxic, wet-look blacks and poisonous greens. Softer shades were added with candy-hued pastels – the pink coat returns for another season via Christopher Kane and Issa. (Naturally my Swatch watches slot right in with these. I suggest a ‘Waffel’ wraparound or a stretchy-strapped watch that looks good enough to eat.) Energetic primary colours are big now and will continue for autumn. Thomas Tait showed them in his constructivist tailoring, while Marques’Almeisa mixed them with slouchy, raw-hemmed denim…

BELOW: THOMAS TAIT/CHRISTOPHER KANE x 2
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[Images: GPS RADAR, Disneyrollergirl, Anya Hindmarch, Swatch, New York Times]

*THIS POST IS A SPONSORED COLLABORATION WITH SWATCH*

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6 Responses to Trends for AW14 from London Fashion Week – in partnership with Swatch*

  1. Sophia says:

    A great roundup of a fantastic week of fashion!

    http://www.girlinmenswear.com

  2. Karine says:

    Very interesting site, the pictures are great, thank you for sharing !

  3. lorna mai says:

    You;ve shown some fantastic photos, colours are fab! Topshop Unique does it for me.

  4. Lisa says:

    Great summary! I am so happy to see art back in fashion and I love the whimsy!

  5. Alicia says:

    Mindblowing trends , love this post !

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