Tag Archives: trends

Denim master craft: Levi’s Lot No. 1

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

7 Levi's Lot No 1 made to order jeans

You’d think a couture gown or Savile Row suit was the ultimate luxury but I can think of something even better. Stationed at the back of Levi’s London flagship store is its recently introduced Lot No. 1 made–to-order jeans service. The answer to every denim connoisseur’s prayers, it’s a meticulously executed personal service that puts the customer at its heart. And I imagine it could become quite addictive.

It’s a truth universally acknowledged that however vast the choice of jeans available to us, the search still continues for The Ones. That’s certainly true in my case – however close I think I’ve come to perfection, I’ve still not quite reached denim nirvana. So Lot No. 1 exists for denim nitpickers like me. Let’s be clear, this is for lovers of deep detail, choice and provenance. (As such, it’s also reserved for those with deep pockets – the service comes at a flat cost of £500.) You start by choosing your denim from beautifully presented swatch books. “The real denim heads tend to choose Cone Mills denims (a raw selvedge American denim), that’s the choice of the denim purists,” explains my host, master tailor Lizzie Radcliffe, a Savile Row transplant whose love of utilitarian clothing brought her to Levi’s. “Our Japanese customers go for the heaviest weights, they like breaking them in.”

For each swatch you can see what it will look like after a certain number of washes, a crucial detail in the first stage of choosing your denim. Next you select your rivets and buttons, again the choice is yours (from seven colours and two styles), followed by colour of threads. There are 20 thread colours to choose from, with navy thread on navy denim considered to be the smartest option. And yes, you can even choose your colour of leather patch from a choice of twelve, including one vegan. I absolutely loved geeking out over all the finer details (four different choices of cotton for the inner pockets – because hey, these things matter!). I think the one-to-one learning process and the unhurried method of choosing your components are as much part of the package as the finished ‘made for you’ jeans.

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Having chosen the denim, threads and buttons, it’s time to work on the actual cut and fit of jeans. For some, this is the crux of the service. There are samples available in all waist and rise sizes, which can be tried on and then adjusted. “Slim, straight jeans are the most requested cut, although carrot jeans are popular too,” says Lizzie, who also points out the importance of discussing how they’ll be washed and worn because that affects how the jeans will sit on your waist. (“Most people say they won’t wash them for the first two months.”) The higher the rise, the lower the size seems to be the rule of thumb, and although clients are encouraged to try on all the different sizes, Lizzie is more than adept at sizing them up with a precision glance.

Surprisingly, the ratio of men to women using the service is a massive 95% male majority aged 25-40. “It’s men with sporty thighs, short guys, wider men,” says Lizzie. Which is understandable; if you’re a non-standard size, why wouldn’t you want made-to-measure jeans that you know will fit you perfectly? Of course, as well as money, you need time; this is no overnight rush job. Working mostly on her own, Lizzie takes 4-6 weeks to turn around a pair of jeans depending on how in demand the service is.

One friend pointed out that Levi’s is supposed to be egalitarian. It’s the ultimate in utility workwear after all, so doesn’t it go against the brand ethos to make elite £500 jeans? It’s a valid point but I don’t see it as a frippery. From the fabrics sourced from the best mills globally, to the vintage machines – stitching machines, overlockers, rivet and button attachers – you’re looking at the best of everything to do the job. As such, these jeans are made to last so aren’t a ‘fashion’ buy so much as a shrewd investment. One that will earn its keep cost-per-wear, and improve with age for years to come.

Levi’s Lot No. 1 is available at Levi’s Regent Street, London. For an appointment or information, email mastertailorlondon@levi.com

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Over the counter couture beauty

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Chanel-Couture-aw14-Thibault-Camus-AP

The Chanel and Dior AW14 couture collections were so different from each other although they both referenced the past to inform the future. The other thing they had in common was youthful hair and makeup. Chanel’s wayward ‘eighties boy band’ hairpieces (above and below) stole my attention from the clothes, giving the outfits an energetic attitude alongside equally youth-centric Sharpie-pen eyeliner flicks. (Full disclosure: I had a major backcombing habit in my teens.) Continue reading

Sport meets street at Net-a-Sporter

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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Aaaaand here she is! The much-hyped Net-a-Sporter category has launched on Net-a-Porter and it has a pretty broad edit of product for the seriously sporty or the pretender who wants to look the part (guess which one I am?). Is it me or is the equestrian gear a little bit kinky? I’m all over those riding boots and prim ‘show shirts’. I’m also loving the primary-coloured one pieces from Lisa Marie Fernandez – the deep neckline and high cut legs are perfect.

Here’s an edit I prepared earlier, or click HERE to go to the site.

Pretty little things

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

1 Agent-Provocateur-Phoenix-Bra

Off anywhere nice on your hols? Of course you are. In which case you’ll be wanting to pack a few personal treats of the luxe, lace variety in your Globe-Trotter luggage. Agent Provocateur’s summer lingerie is big on saccharine sweetness with a side serving of neon in the details. Continue reading

At Dior couture, the millennium starts now

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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As we all know, a decade doesn’t really hit its stride until it reaches its mid point, which is kind of where we’re at now – summer 2014. In fact, it feels to me like we’re only now properly embracing the 21st century, ready to leave the security of the past century behind and boldly go forth. If you want a crystal clear sign, then look at the death of the hipster. Ruling the fashion landscape since the early 2000s, the combo of vintage pastiche, emerging technology and ironic, ugly-on-purpose styling defined the first decade of the millennium with one foot in the past and one foot in the future. Now, having exhausted every ironic retro reference, we’re ready to go full speed into the 2000s. Continue reading

Buy it now: the Aries boilersuit

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Aries-boiler-suit-Matches
Keep an eye on Aries, the newish brand by dream duo Sofia Prantera and Fergus Purcell – it’s growing. The idiosyncratic street-fashion label is now stocked by Matchesfashion, with an exclusive capsule collection of boilersuits landing in store today.

I can’t put my finger on what I like about Aries. I think it’s because it comes from an honest place, it’s completely their aesthetic and not too polished. Continue reading

BEAUTY BITS: BRITISH BEAUTY BLOGGER FOR M&S, STEAMCREAM, DIPTYQUE, PRO-AGING, TERRY DE GUNZBERG, MARILYN MONROE, BURT’S BEES, YAHOO BEAUTY

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

FIRST LOOK: BRITISH BEAUTY BLOGGER’S M&S MAKE-UP LINE

Processed with VSCOcam with hb1 presetHow exciting is this? Britain’s best beauty blogger (AKA British Beauty Blogger), Jane Cunningham has only gone and produced a makeup line with Marks & Spencer. It’s brilliant on lots of levels. Continue reading

What to steal from the menswear shows: Loewe SS15

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Jonathan Anderson’s new-look Loewe has has rave reviews so far, with its reworked logo, ad campaign and SS15 menswear all giddily received by the critics. For spring-summer 2015, Anderson’s inspiration came from pre-rave Ibiza references so it’s heavy on rustic-looking but luxurious fabrics and simple, bohemian shapes (given Anderson’s ultra-modern ambi-sexual treatment).

My standouts are the suede polo shirts, nappa biker jackets, soft suitcases and ‘Meccano’ Oxford shoes (which are on the site now). And I’m totally tying my scarves like this from now on…

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What to expect from Prada womenswear 2015

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Prada menswear ss15 Prada womenswear resort 2015 Dazed

I always like the sneak previews of womenswear that Prada shows on its menswear runway. As the men’s collections are shown a full three months ahead of women’s it gives us a good idea of the direction, not just for Prada but for fashion overall*.

This collection led us back to Miuccia’s 60-70s roots, with a more everyday look than her sometimes fantastical offerings. It also reminded me a lot of 90s Prada. The camel sweater, rigid denim and crystal-adorned slingbacks get my vote… Continue reading

Topman Design SS15

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Is it just me or did the Topman Design SS15 show at LC: M feel like Madchester-meets-Britpop through an Elizabeth Peyton filter? Gorgeous colour palette, psychedelic print-clashing, sensitive-boy casting, floppy flares and wayward moptop haircuts. That’s your indie-boy look sorted for 2015…

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