Tag Archives: trends
Picture the scene: on arrival at the pap-packed arch of the Musee du Louvre courtyard, you’re greeted by the Dior show venue – a giant mirrored cube. Could this be construed as the ultimate symbol of our modern, narcissistic times? A reflection of us in all our peacock-y finery? This I wondered as I joined pretty much every other show-goer in taking an obligatory selfie to share immediately (cos if you didn’t record it and instantly share it, then you clearly weren’t really there). As I entered the spring summer 2015 show, I expected some more extravagant visual theatrics, alas there was no sign of the wall of 150,000 orchids seen at Dior’s AW14 couture show. In fact, the set was fairly calm; monochromatic, slightly space age-y and a similar layout to said couture show. Black glossy chairs were grouped in four circular ‘salon’ arrangements to give the proceedings an intimate aura.
Reading the show notes which described ‘looking forwards and backwards to prepare for the future through a dynamic sampling and remixing of history’, I thought, wait, this sounds like the couture show too! And when the first of fifty exits emerged on similarly fresh-faced, flowy-haired models as Dior’s July offering, I did feel a sense of deja-vu. Astronauts’ boilersuits juxtaposed with 18th century court dress – hadn’t we been here before? But this is the clever thing; it’s Raf Simons refining an idea, developing his original hyper-luxe output into something lighter, relaxed and widely appealing for the ready-to-wear market.
Raf himself has said he wants Dior to appeal to today’s woman. Hence, the shapes, although rooted in cleverly cut, tailored silhouettes had a youthful (not ‘young’, there’s a difference) energy. The highlights were a warp-printed silk taffeta jumpsuit, a floral jaquard bomber jacket and the high-necked, leg-of-mutton-sleeved smock-shirts which were intriguing yet wearable. Meanwhile, the pleated mini skirt-suits were slightly reminiscent of Clueless, especially teamed with hand-knitted sock-booties, a likely hit with the street style contingent. And the glue that bonded it all together was a masterstroke of streetwear-gone-posh – a succession of quilted silk skate shorts.
Those luxe skate shorts perhaps summed up Dior’s confident new attitude. Raf’s models, speed-walking in sleeveless redingotes with hands plunged into pockets could just as easily be thirty, forty or fifty-somethings with the same on-the-go spring in their step. The crucial factor is the informal treatment of those period references as reflected in the weightless fabrics, the sporty demeanours and lightly made up faces (not to mention Michel Gaubert’s highly unladylike soundtrack featuring Koudlam and Cowboy Rhythmbox). It’s far from the costume-y effect you might get in the hands of a McQueen or a Westwood – or Galliano-era Dior for that matter.
On the front row sat the usual celebrity bold-faces. Hollywood royalty of course – Dakota Fanning, Marion Cottlard, Natalie Dormer from Game of Thrones – but perhaps the biggest pap magnet was Olivia Palermo who straddles the blogger-celeb line perfectly. A photo of her has twice as much currency, sitting just as happily on the fashion pages as the celeb pages (or ideally both). As a gateway to the blogger generation, but with the poise and femininity of the classic Dior customer, she’s the embodiment of today’s ideal clotheshorse. Post-show, she patiently posed against the mirrored box in its historic, cobbled courtyard, the very picture of past, present and future.
[Words: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
Images: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl; Fashion GPS; Style.com; Vogue.co.uk]
DISNEYROLLERGIRL ATTENDED THE DIOR SS15 SHOW AS A GUEST OF DIOR
Gap’s ‘new’ creative director, Rebekka Bay is well into her stride now and fittingly for the Dane who came from COS, the look for AW14 is heavily weighted to a darker, Scandi-style aesthetic.
I particularly like the inky indigo blue denim (above) and the dark wool cocoon jacket (below). I’ve tried it on and it’s a great cut, ticking the box for smart but warm very well. Two other things Gap is nailing at the moment: cashmere and sweatshirts. Continue reading
Slowly falling in love with Jil Sander again. Incoming creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga showed his debut for SS15 and I really like the youthful, school uniformness of the stiff shirting, wrap skirts and cool colour palette.
Someone in Bon magazine (Yasmin Sewell I think) said a while ago that they doubted the relevance of Sander now that other brands have stepped into the Sander space (Celine, The Row). But this younger take could appeal to a new customer, and I always like to support the underdog… Continue reading
Who needs expensive glossies when you can pick up this standard of editorial excellence free from an Hermes store? The autumn-winter 2014 issues of Hermes’ magazine has a feel of The Gentlewoman and Fantastic Man, both in the handsome casting and styling of its womenswear shoots (this one’s shot by Julia Hetta and styled by Camille Biddault-Waddington) and in the quiet and precise mood of its men’s accessory shoot… Continue reading
This post is a little late because I had so much post-LFW catching up to do.
Simone Rocha is a favourite for Londoners and has finely tuned her unique communion-chic aesthetic. I loved how the models’ heads were swathed in sheer, flower-scattered voiles. Also, those pink lace-ups… Continue reading
The answer to the question “why do we still need fashion shows?” was answered succinctly on Monday with Thomas Tait’s powerpacked, techno-soundtracked stomper of a show. Fashion shows need emotion, energy and feeling in order to express something these days, the clothes are only part of the story. And so Tait created tension and anticipation in his concrete box of a location, with walls painted in collaboration with artist Georges Rousse setting an intriguing scene. Continue reading
If there was any doubt that phones are now fashion accessories, last week rammed that thought home. With Apple‘s major unveiling during New York Fashion Week with key fashion press in the front row and Natalie Massenet representing (will she be selling the new Apple devices on Net-a-Porter?), the fashionisation of our everyday tech gear is indisputable.
OK the big fuss was all around the smart Watch but the general consensus among the fashion contingent is it ain’t all that (yet). Continue reading
Mr DRG is quite the trainer connoisseur, having spent far too much time and money on them during the first wave of sneaker-freakery back in the day. Here’s his guest post on his latest Nike fixation…
I love the way that Nike has been updating classics from its archives over the last few years. Not such a stange statement you might think, but this comes from someone whose mantra is a fixed, ‘don’t mess with a classic, it’s classic for a reason’. Yet Nike is pulling it off, time and time again. Continue reading
I can’t normally abide hanky hems, but I’m making an exception for these divine mermaid silhouettes at Rodarte. Also… those bonkers boots!
As usual, the casting, hair, makeup and attitude is spot on. The classic all-American make-up and hair with those busy outfits. The pierced eyebrows!. Continue reading