For all the fanfare around puffy jackets and duvet coats, it has to be said – they don’t suit everyone. I was reminded about this at the weekend at the sight of a diminutive soul in her blue Bacofoil number, hoisted slightly askew a la Vetements, but not really fooling anyone. No wonder then that the sensible stalwart, the trench coat, is more popular than ever, on and off the catwalk.
“I was so struck by everything I was seeing that I started to cry. I felt so embarrassed. I was like, Oh God, look at the ground, look at the ground, everyone’s going to see you’re crying — like, how stupid to be crying at a fashion show. Then I looked around, and half the audience was crying.”
Raf Simons on the effect of the SS90 Martin Margiela show, The Gentlewoman (via Business of Fashion)
London Fashion Week kicked off with two buzzy new names. Faustine Steinmetz showed as part of New Gen with her first presentation, a clever exploration of couture and branding, set in the suitably arty ICA.
I’m so impressed by this young designer, whose obsession for hands-on labour and figuring things out results in mind boggling textile experiments. On display were denim-look jackets of polyester styled out like Shibori (“It’s not Shibori at all! I actually handpainted it, I just like that look,” Steinmetz told me), and a jeans-n-jacket combo made from unravelled layers of upcycled denim creating a tufty fringe effect. (more…)
“For me, the future is going to be about in-person transactions and real conversations, skills and sharing in real spaces, rather than the cabaret of the nameless we’ve witnessed over the past decade.”
Interesting insights from The Gentlewoman’s Penny Martin on The Business Of Fashion