Tag Archives: Raf Simons
Picture the scene: on arrival at the pap-packed arch of the Musee du Louvre courtyard, you’re greeted by the Dior show venue – a giant mirrored cube. Could this be construed as the ultimate symbol of our modern, narcissistic times? A reflection of us in all our peacock-y finery? This I wondered as I joined pretty much every other show-goer in taking an obligatory selfie to share immediately (cos if you didn’t record it and instantly share it, then you clearly weren’t really there). As I entered the spring summer 2015 show, I expected some more extravagant visual theatrics, alas there was no sign of the wall of 150,000 orchids seen at Dior’s AW14 couture show. In fact, the set was fairly calm; monochromatic, slightly space age-y and a similar layout to said couture show. Black glossy chairs were grouped in four circular ‘salon’ arrangements to give the proceedings an intimate aura.
Reading the show notes which described ‘looking forwards and backwards to prepare for the future through a dynamic sampling and remixing of history’, I thought, wait, this sounds like the couture show too! And when the first of fifty exits emerged on similarly fresh-faced, flowy-haired models as Dior’s July offering, I did feel a sense of deja-vu. Astronauts’ boilersuits juxtaposed with 18th century court dress – hadn’t we been here before? But this is the clever thing; it’s Raf Simons refining an idea, developing his original hyper-luxe output into something lighter, relaxed and widely appealing for the ready-to-wear market.
Raf himself has said he wants Dior to appeal to today’s woman. Hence, the shapes, although rooted in cleverly cut, tailored silhouettes had a youthful (not ‘young’, there’s a difference) energy. The highlights were a warp-printed silk taffeta jumpsuit, a floral jaquard bomber jacket and the high-necked, leg-of-mutton-sleeved smock-shirts which were intriguing yet wearable. Meanwhile, the pleated mini skirt-suits were slightly reminiscent of Clueless, especially teamed with hand-knitted sock-booties, a likely hit with the street style contingent. And the glue that bonded it all together was a masterstroke of streetwear-gone-posh – a succession of quilted silk skate shorts.
Those luxe skate shorts perhaps summed up Dior’s confident new attitude. Raf’s models, speed-walking in sleeveless redingotes with hands plunged into pockets could just as easily be thirty, forty or fifty-somethings with the same on-the-go spring in their step. The crucial factor is the informal treatment of those period references as reflected in the weightless fabrics, the sporty demeanours and lightly made up faces (not to mention Michel Gaubert’s highly unladylike soundtrack featuring Koudlam and Cowboy Rhythmbox). It’s far from the costume-y effect you might get in the hands of a McQueen or a Westwood – or Galliano-era Dior for that matter.
On the front row sat the usual celebrity bold-faces. Hollywood royalty of course – Dakota Fanning, Marion Cottlard, Natalie Dormer from Game of Thrones – but perhaps the biggest pap magnet was Olivia Palermo who straddles the blogger-celeb line perfectly. A photo of her has twice as much currency, sitting just as happily on the fashion pages as the celeb pages (or ideally both). As a gateway to the blogger generation, but with the poise and femininity of the classic Dior customer, she’s the embodiment of today’s ideal clotheshorse. Post-show, she patiently posed against the mirrored box in its historic, cobbled courtyard, the very picture of past, present and future.
[Words: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
Images: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl; Fashion GPS; Style.com; Vogue.co.uk]
DISNEYROLLERGIRL ATTENDED THE DIOR SS15 SHOW AS A GUEST OF DIOR
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. HERMES LAUNCHES LE BAIN
So here you have the ultimate bathtime experience. Can you think of anything posher than Hermes hand wash or shampoo? Continue reading
As we all know, a decade doesn’t really hit its stride until it reaches its mid point, which is kind of where we’re at now – summer 2014. In fact, it feels to me like we’re only now properly embracing the 21st century, ready to leave the security of the past century behind and boldly go forth. If you want a crystal clear sign, then look at the death of the hipster. Ruling the fashion landscape since the early 2000s, the combo of vintage pastiche, emerging technology and ironic, ugly-on-purpose styling defined the first decade of the millennium with one foot in the past and one foot in the future. Now, having exhausted every ironic retro reference, we’re ready to go full speed into the 2000s. Continue reading
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, featuring the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. COS X SERPENTINE GALLERIES
COS is marking its collab with the Serpentine Galleries with a special pair of shoes. Digging through the archive, it has reworked a classic Oxford with a stepped in back, with sales revenue donated to the Serpentine Trust. A good enough reason to invest, no? Buy them online or at the Regent street store… Continue reading
What to do when Dior calls and asks if you’d like to interpret its fall 2014 collection Disneyrollergirl-stylee? First you grab your creative collaborator, (thank you photographer Emma Miranda Moore), then you descend on the Dior showroom, making a beeline for all those epic accessories – that knitted neck-warmer, those Mise En Dior tribal earrings, the moonscape scarf, bejewelled necklaces and the newest version of my favourite Grand Bal Plisse Soleil watch. Plus of course, a few select clothing choices to go with.
The fall 2014 collection is Dior’s equivalent to pre-fall but there are killer pieces amongst the commercial numbers. The silk leopard-spot coat is as couture-fabulous as you’d expect in its cut and print but its extravagant volume is even more striking when worn as casually as a dressing gown (subtext: ‘I woke up like this’). Ditto the silk slip dress with its integrated baby blue cardigan; the most relaxed evening dress you ever saw or the ultimate in decadent nightwear? You decide. And in yet another attempt to deconstruct Dior a little, we have Raf’s ultimate ode to his beloved youth culture, the MA1 as a 3-way coat that unzips at the waist to become a jacket and skirt of New Look-esque proportions. Be assured, this is not your mother’s Dior…
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape (above), £230, Dior
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape, £230; Dior Vernis nail lacquer in Palais Royal, £18.50; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil 36mm watch in stainless steel, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, £16,000; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Silk jumpsuit, £3,700; Diorigin bracelet in metal with gold finish adorned with smoky crystals and orange pony, from £2,000; Dior Addict FluidStick in Pandore, £26, all Dior
Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, Dior
Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; both Dior
Leather Perfecto jacket, £4,700; Lady Dior panther printed pony effect calfskin bag, £3,400; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Diorigin astrakhan cuff, £2,250; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790, Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool knit collar, £270; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Top image: Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; silk dress, from £2,000; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
All fall 2014 items available from DIOR, 31 Sloane Street, SW1 – Dior.com – 0207 172 0172; Beauty stockists: Dior.com – 0207 216 0216
*THIS SHOOT WAS PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DIOR*
I spent last week doing the AW14 press day rounds and my early highlights include all the art-fashion collections emerging. Each X Other is an interesting collective of artists, musicians, designers and other creatives who translate their work into something wearable, beautiful and often poetic, the idea being that art is always around you. For AW14, they have teamed up with New York artist Maripol to produce these simple pieces printed with her recognisable Polaroids and club flyers…
By accident or clever engineering, Lego’s latest offering is right in tune with fashion right now. Its line of adult watches marry poppy primary colours with playful graphics, plus the current obsession with all things customisable and hackable.
Head to the Lego Watch website and you can choose from a number of different styles with customisable straps and bezels. The links of the watches click in and out of place and can be changed to different colours, while silicone straps can also be added. Continue reading
I could write a thesis-length post on Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s epic joint AW14 collection, but I won’t. Instead I recommend you read all about in Tim Blanks’ Style.com report. Or just enjoy the pictures. Suffice to say, the conceptual art student is alive and kicking on the catwalk and if you love collage, Pollock-meets-Clash paint splatters, Lichtenstein primary colours and provocative wordplay, then it’s all here for ya, wrapped up in dun-coloured cashmere and nubby tweed. Continue reading