Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. PORTS 1961 GETS A REFRESH
I was invited to the Ports 1961 press day last week to see the debut womenswear collection by new creative director Natasa Cagalj. The brand is undergoing a bit of a reinvention thanks to Cagalj, who is set on delivering wearable, adaptable wardrobe solutions for women. She’s doing this with fantastic coats, jackets and shirts that have a little bit of masculinity in their tailored construction but not too much. (more…)
I’m not-very-secretly relieved to see the demise of the monopoly of the ‘plat-heel’ shoe. Those overstated stilettos with a stacked platform (also known as stripper heels) have just become ubiquitous on the high street to the point that it’s almost impossible to find high heels with normal soles. Well that’s slowly changing. (more…)
“Louis Vuitton has become too common!” LVMH’s Bernard Arnault didn’t quite say last week. But the sentiment was there. Speaking at LVMH’s annual results presentation, he revealed that Louis Vuitton is scaling back on global expansion and focusing more on its high end products and superior customer service to avoid cheapening the brand.
This is a trend, not just at Louis Vuitton, but other luxury houses, who have stripped away the obvious logos and boosted product that shows off house ‘codes’. Dior recently reignited its ‘bar’ jacket and ‘comma’ heels, Gucci, the horsebit loafer (which is 60 years old this year), Chanel flagged up its pearls and Saint Laurent, its tie-neck blouses and iconic tuxedos. At Vuitton, the overexposed monogram has been sidelined for SS13 by the Damier check.
At Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall 13 preview on Thursday, my main highlight was the collection of Noe bags, a heritage Vuitton bag refreshed in new colours and sizes. Originally a carrying case for champagne bottles (what else?), the design celebrates its 80th anniversary this year.
My other highlight was the Icons collection, a capsule collection that updates pieces from the archive. I love this sheepskin balmacaan, a collarless coat that can be worn reversed with the leather on the outside. Delicious, no?
The Prada stacked ‘geta’ flatform is a work of art, that’s undisputed. A piece that you can actually wear? Not so much. Yes, you’ll see Anna Dello Russo, Fran Burns et al admirably trialling it come the February shows, but in the main those editors have drivers; mere mortals will face more of a challenge. Because as well as their height and bulk, these mega shoes weigh a bloody ton! Which is why Prada has also unveiled a far more wearable properly flat version, plus of course its fabulous metallic tabi sock which promises to be the real hit of the season. (more…)