Tag Archives: pre-collection
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. ALEXIS MARTIAL TO CARVEN
I loved what Alexis Martial did at Iceberg so I’ll be interested to see how he develops Carven. This week we heard that Martial and Adran Caillaudaud (most recently at Givenchy) are the new co artistic directors at Carven, with Martial focusing on RTW and Caillaudaud on accessories. Continue reading
While here in the UK we’ve had an extremely mild autumn and stores grumble that they haven’t sold enough AW14 coats, the fashion-forward customer is onto other things. Namely, Cruise. The Cruise 2015 collections arrived in November and continue to sell all the way until June. It’s a well known fact now that Cruise (and pre-fall) collections sell more for stores than the more directional spring-summer and autumn-winter collections.
Last week I went to Louis Vuitton to check out the SS15 collection. The press day was help in the private ‘apartment’ on the top floor of the Bond Street Maison. Afterwards I went for a nose around the store as I haven’t been in since Ghesquiere took over from Jacobs. Although it wasn’t that busy customer-wise, the store staff were being very industrious keeping their regular clients up to date with new deliveries. As they explained to me, the Cruise collection had recently arrived and was flying out as soon as they informed their customers. Continue reading
Burberry is still all about outerwear for me. The Burberry Prorsum pre-fall 2015 collection is heavy on voluminous, textured coats and slim bottoms and I’m noticing a big focus on furry-looking shearlings that are casual, cosy and effortless-looking. I’m also a sucker for a too-short sleeve. Yes please. Continue reading
…And finally, the concept of pre-collections makes perfect sense. Landing in store any day now, the pre-fall collections (AKA the collections that take up an increasing slice of a buyer’s budget) consist of the wear-all-year pieces that have become the mainstay of British wardrobes. Continue reading
To celebrate the launch of London Collections: Men (aka the new London menswear shows), I wrote about double-breasted tailoring for Glamour…
Burberry got royally slated for its AW11 collection but personally I rather liked its beatniky 60s slant. And I like the SS12 pre-collection even more. I’m glad Christopher Bailey has moved on from the severely abbreviated dresses of the past few collections. Continue reading
This season sees the Resort/Cruise collections go mainstream. As customers are increasingly fashion-aware and exposed to newness 24/7, the onus is on designers to give them more fashion, more frequently. Whereas Cruise used to be something of an also-ran (see this article from 1988!), this season it’s become an event in itself with proper celebs – witness Jennifer Lopez, Charlize Theron and Christina Aguilera at Dior – and coverage in the dailies.
This quote from Karl Lagerfeld on Style.com sums it up:
“It’s not Resort anymore. It’s another collection—in the story of Fall, pre-Fall, Paris/London, pre-Spring, Spring—called “cruise.” It’s like a code name, but the thing is that Chanel needs six ready-to-wear collections a year, every two months completely new things at the shops. There are hundreds of shops all over the world that have to have something new all the time or else there’s no reason to go back. Or else you go to a place like Colette where they see 100 labels. If it’s one label, this label needs to have something new all the time.”