Tag Archives: Prada
Square toed shoes at Prada/Jil Sander SS13: Discuss
Last week I got sent the first gripping ‘episode’ of Peroni Collaborazioni, the fashion project I’m working on with Shaun Samson. Together we’re creating a piece that defines Italian style which will be showcased in November. So what is Italian style? I started off thinking about knitwear (spurred by Shaun’s graduate collection that melded knits, plaids and denim so expertly together) which took me back to the golden age of Benetton’s rainbow coloured vision and Missoni’s iconic zig zags. Then I got hooked on the idea of the eccentrics: Schiaparelli, Anna Piaggi, Moschino, because I love wit and humour in fashion. Then the classic luxe heritage of Italian style as personified by Armani, Gucci and Fendi’s fabulous furs took hold. But in the end, after much debate, we arrived at a different place.
Shaun’s work so far has been very much about textile innovation; he’s an experimentor who loves to play around and let the magic happen of its own accord. I love the way the modern-day eccentrics like Prada and Marni play with textiles, juxtaposing mad combinations together, demonstrated so beautifully this season in Prada’s pailette-fake-fur-snakeskin-lurex texture-clash. Having access to our super-knowledgable Italian fashion consultant Anna Battista has also been quite the eye opener. In one of our email exchanges, she sent me the following:
“People usually think it’s the designer who is the genius, but in Italy it was often the case that the unassuming textile designer was the real genius behind a fashion collection, especially in the heyday of Italian fashion. Many textile manufacturers in the Prato area (who closed their business after the crisis) were actually as skilled and talented as the fashion designers themselves and came up with amazing fabrics. I think in Italy you have fashion designers who are great fabric connoisseurs such as Valentino and Giorgio Armani, but also fashion designers who experimented with fabrics in great ways such as Roberto Capucci or Walter Albini.
“Emilio Pucci who’s more known for his kaleidosopic prints even patented his own fabric called Emilioform, while accessory designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo pushed things further, experimenting with materials as varied as invisible thread, candy wrappings, cork and even gold in his shoes. In more recent years we have seen interesting surface elaborations at Fendi (well they have great knowledge there about leather and fur…) that merged Burri’s burnt paintings with fashion. Gianni Versace also mixed plastic/PVC and silk to obtain lurid effects (that some critics deemed as rather kitsch) and patented the oroton, a sort of metal mesh fabric imitating chain mail that could be draped, dyed or printed.”
Hello, who knew Versace invented that chain mail fabric (that is quite prominent in the forthcoming Versace X H&M collab by the way)? Certainly not me! So we have gone in the direction of labour-intensive fabric experimentation, which is obviously Shaun’s forte. And we have gone for the sensible option of creating a simple piece which will let the fabric do the talking. There are only a few weeks left to complete the project so time is of the essence. For now, let me leave you with this wee write-up of the project in The Guardian…
Anna’s footwear of choice looks to be returning from the fashion doldrums. Spotted at Fendi and Prada, it’s the latest bad-taste shoe to be reincarnated as the subversively cool option. What do you say – eek or chic?
One of the many benefits of being freelance (aside from swerving endless budget meetings and the rush hour commute) is the freedom to drop everything for an impromptu visit to Bicester Village. And so my London Fashion Week of shows and soirees ended with a jaunt to Oxfordshire hosted by the Bicester Village online team. Continue reading
This summer is shaping up to be quite the celebration of all things Italian. Prada’s IPO, Firenze4Ever and Versace dominated June, while so far, Masters of Style and Dolce & Gabbana (just launched their own etail site and now stocked at Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter) have taken over July. This weekend sees more Italia loving with the Ellesse heritage pop-up boutique (at 77 Redchurch St, E2) screening stylish Italian movie classics. Adding to the fun, Wah Nails will be on hand to add some suitably colourful cheer to your nails with a special menu of Ellesse-inspired designs (above).
In other nail news, the one woman dynamo that is Sophy Robson has only gone and developed a range of nail art in collaboration with OPI and Sephora! There are also nail art ‘recipes’ and how-to videos as part of the package. How ‘wow’ are these cherry blossom nails?
[Image credit: Cherry Blossom nails via SophyRobson.com]
Something tells me that punchy, head-to-toe prints will be the new colour-block come SS12. Taking the lead from Prada ss11, we have seen extreme, colourful prints from three highly influential brands: Celine resort ss12, Preen resort ss12 and Prada menswear ss12. Continue reading
I am fascinated by the new autumn/winter 07 Prada collection. It’s so horrific and ugly and unflattering, yet Miuccia’s influence is so great, the looks will somehow filter down in a less extreme form and change the direction of fashion. Ditto Marc Jacobs. I hated his spring/summer 07 collections for Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, yet he clearly knows what he’s doing so they’re bound to have an influence on future fashion. It will all become clear in time…