The end of a lovely chapter at Hermes ss15. I’ve enjoyed Christophe Lemaire’s vision at the house but I’m champing at the bit to see what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has in store too. Some called Lemaire’s final collection for Hermes a palate-cleanser* from the 70s overload seen pretty much everywhere else. (more…)
Picture the scene: on arrival at the pap-packed arch of the Musee du Louvre courtyard, you’re greeted by the Dior show venue – a giant mirrored cube. Could this be construed as the ultimate symbol of our modern, narcissistic times? A reflection of us in all our peacock-y finery? This I wondered as I joined pretty much every other show-goer in taking an obligatory selfie to share immediately (cos if you didn’t record it and instantly share it, then you clearly weren’t really there). (more…)
Sorry PRs but my big highlight of Paris Fashion Week wasn’t the shows or the parties but the new exhibition, Dries Van Noten: Inspirations. Showing at the Arts Decoratifs Museum until 31st August, Dries Van Noten and curator Pamela Golbin have coincidentally created an assemblage of exhibits that encompasses a number of my own favourite themes.
Downstairs is big on the foppish overlaps of masculinity and femininity, the romance of youth subcultures and a fascination with British monarchy and society. As you enter the exhibition through Azuma Makoto’s giant floral fantasia, you’re greeted by a room wallpapered with pop culture references. From camp Divine posters to Interview magazine covers, these are easily recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 80s. Dries Van Noten’s early designs from his student days at the Antwerp Royal Academy (his 1981 sun motif coat looks especially contemporary) sit alongside influential pieces by Kenzo, Mugler, Versace and Worlds End-era Westwood, culled from the museum’s own archive.
The subsequent vitrines are grouped in themes such as ‘Iconclast’, ‘Graphic’ and ‘Butterflies’ and display seemingly disparate items – a film clip, artwork or ancient textile piece – alongside examples from a chosen Dries Van Noten collection, to demonstrate his creative through process. It’s funny to think this is the first time a designer exhibition (it’s not billed as a retrospective) has been presented this way because it really makes a lot of sense in revealing the common passions and aesthetics of the brand and the man. (more…)
Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.
Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. (more…)