Tag Archives: LVMH
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. PORTS 1961 GETS A REFRESH
I was invited to the Ports 1961 press day last week to see the debut womenswear collection by new creative director Natasa Cagalj. The brand is undergoing a bit of a reinvention thanks to Cagalj, who is set on delivering wearable, adaptable wardrobe solutions for women. She’s doing this with fantastic coats, jackets and shirts that have a little bit of masculinity in their tailored construction but not too much. I also loved her styling. She has paired these cool, intelligent pieces with idiosyncratic footwear and hats, such as the knotty skate shoes (‘a nod to Romeo Gigli’) above. These early prototype samples got a lot of love on my Instagram.
2. THE CORNER GOES GENDER NEUTRAL
So the Selfridges ‘Agender’ effect is seeping through to other areas of retail already. Ecommerce site, The Corner has announced that from June it will incorporate a gender-neutral section on its site. Called “No Gender”, it will sell non-gender-specific pieces from brands including Rick Owens, Rad Hourani, Hood by Air and Ann Demeulemeester.
3. FAUSTINE STEINMETZ AND MARQUES’ALMEIDA IN LINE FOR LVMH FASHION PRIZE
Major news from the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. London has scored very well with three out of eight candidates in the final lineup (why does this feel like Eurovision?!). Congrats to Faustine Steinmetz (above), Marques’Almeida and Craig Green, whose singular visions, creativity and business nous have done them proud in a hugely competitive market. Here’s my first piece on Faustine from 2013.
4. MARC BY MARC JACOBS IN JEOPARDY?
Rumours are swirling that Marc By Marc Jacobs is being killed off, or rather, folded into the main Marc Jacobs line. According to WWD’s Bridget Foley, it’s a cost cutting exercise in preparation for the impending IPO. But where will it leave Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller?
WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
MARC BY MARC JACOBS IMAGE: DAZED by LEA COLOMBO
Fashion shows may get all the Fashion Week media love but there’s a whole other side that people don’t see. They’re the less glamorous workhorses of the fashion calendar; the showrooms, re-sees and trade shows. While the menswear shows took all the Paris glory last month, I spent three days in a parallel universe with the team from Who’s Next and Premiere Classe, getting an insider’s look at the biannual trade show, with a few added leisure activities thrown in. Continue reading
Nope, still not bored with this year’s fashion-art love affair. Which is just as well as it’s only set to intensify. Late October sees the big reveal of the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton art museum in Paris (above), showcasing the LVMH corporate collection of art. The 126,000 square foot ‘glass cloud’ is rumoured to be the venue for the next Vuitton womenswear show, so expect your Instagram feed to be flooded with art-fashion-architecture amazingess of the highest order… Continue reading
“Women are the future of watches, there’s huge potential in women’s watches that is only half exploited today.” So said Jean-Claude Biver, head of LVMH’s watch unit earlier this year. He must be rubbing his hands this month as the summer influx of middle-Eastern customers arrive to shop up a storm at our luxury department stores.
“Don’t insist too much about the young. One day they will be less young. And then people are not interested anymore because they’re not a young designer. Say ‘designer.’ If they’re good, they are ‘designer.’ If they are not OK, they need the word ‘young designer.’ In a way, it’s an insult.”
Karl Lagerfeld on LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer Prize, New York Times
[Image: Kevin Tachman/Vogue.com]
“Louis Vuitton has become too common!” LVMH’s Bernard Arnault didn’t quite say last week. But the sentiment was there. Speaking at LVMH’s annual results presentation, he revealed that Louis Vuitton is scaling back on global expansion and focusing more on its high end products and superior customer service to avoid cheapening the brand.
This is a trend, not just at Louis Vuitton, but other luxury houses, who have stripped away the obvious logos and boosted product that shows off house ‘codes’. Dior recently reignited its ‘bar’ jacket and ‘comma’ heels, Gucci, the horsebit loafer (which is 60 years old this year), Chanel flagged up its pearls and Saint Laurent, its tie-neck blouses and iconic tuxedos. At Vuitton, the overexposed monogram has been sidelined for SS13 by the Damier check.
At Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall 13 preview on Thursday, my main highlight was the collection of Noe bags, a heritage Vuitton bag refreshed in new colours and sizes. Originally a carrying case for champagne bottles (what else?), the design celebrates its 80th anniversary this year.
My other highlight was the Icons collection, a capsule collection that updates pieces from the archive. I love this sheepskin balmacaan, a collarless coat that can be worn reversed with the leather on the outside. Delicious, no?
My first men’s Paris Fashion Week was a wheeze of shows, presentations, exhibitions, parties and a tiny bit of shopping. Plus lots of people-watching outside cafes, drinking coffee and wafting pretend cigarettes. One of the most impressive presentations was the Berluti event in the lush Jardin du Palais Royal, I mean just look at the photos… Continue reading
*Celine dress with Sofia Coppola for Louis Vuitton shoes