Kim Jones

What to steal from Louis Vuitton menswear SS17

Louis Vuitton menswear ss17

If you’re concerned about Joe Corre’s threat to burn his entire stash of punk memorabilia, don’t fret so. Kim Jones has a sizable chunk of the archive in his possession, being an avid collector of Sex, Seditionaries Westwood and the rest. Thus his collection for Louis Vuitton menswear SS17 was peppered with a smattering of punkish references, from kinky plastic macs, to stencil-print boilersuits, to my favourite old standby, the razzy mohair sweater. All with a veneer of grown up polish, naturally.

Jones took part of his inspo from South Africa (Vuitton is, of course, rooted in travel, and Jones spent much of his childhood in various parts of Africa) which lent the collection an Afro-punk vibe, thanks to the Jake and Dinos Chapman-illustrated animal prints and generous use of exotic skins.

The irony is that youngsters don’t seem that bothered about starting new youth cults. It’s the old folk who love revisiting the punkish past and they’re the only ones likely to be able to afford these uber-luxe renditions. Oldsters rejoice!

 Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 Vogue Runway
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 Vogue Runway

7 Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed 3

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9 Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed 5

9 Louis Vuitton Vogue Runway

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Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue Runway; Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
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Disco, decadence and democracy on the dance floor

Disco Bill Bernstein - New York Nightclub Xenon

Bill Berstein’s eye-opening new book documents the New York discos of the 1970s

Poor old disco! So derided, so misunderstood. But things are looking up, with a return to unashamedly feel-good dance music and a rose-tinted look back to the hedonistic sound of the 70s. Nile Rodgers arguably helped kick off the latest disco revival, first with his 2011 autobiography and next with a new generation of artists wanting his production skills on their music (hello Daft Punk and Pharrell Williams). Then came the festivals, with thousands of youngsters blissing out on old Chic tunes.

Meanwhile, 2016 sees fashion co-opting the scene, not just with Olivier Rousteing’s disco-fication of Balmain, but with Kim Jones’ Louis Vuitton SS16 catwalk glitz (Nile Rodgers did the music) and Tom Ford’s epic SS16 video featuring a Lady Gaga rendition of Chic’s I Want Your Love (watch it, it’s great…). Not to mention Sacai, whose SS16 menswear collection pays tribute to Larry Levan and the Paradise Garage club – logo included.
Sacai ss16 Paradise Garage
Sacai ss16 Paradise Garage
Louis Vuitton ss16 menswear

The sybaritic, forget-the-outside-world spirit of disco suddenly seems just the tonic for today’s uncertain political and economic landscape. And five weeks ago, a timely tome arrived called Disco, a photo book by New York photographer Bill Bernstein. Celebrating the escapist world of 1970s New York nightclubs, the making of the book is itself an interesting story.

Disco Bill Bernstein book published by Reel Art Press

In 1977, Bernstein, a freelance photographer for the Village Voice, was commissioned to photograph an award presentation at Studio 54, honouring then-President Jimmy Carter’s mother Lillian for her humanitarian work. As the dinner ended and the regular clubbers started to arrive, Bernstein’s sixth sense urged him to stay a little longer. He bought ten rolls of film from a departing photographer and spent the next few hours capturing a ‘night world’ previously unknown to him, in which Wall Street suits cavorted with gay tourists and celebrities boogied with transgender revellers. “Had I been suddenly transported back to a pre-war Berlin cabaret?” a dazed Bernstein wondered. “Who were these people of the night and what was their other, real life like?”

The resulting photos were a revelation and inspired him to keep going, discovering other discos and clubs and their eclectic patrons. 1970s New York was going through a political and social change. While activists campaigned for women’s liberation, gay liberation and racial equality, these clubs were a place for marginalised New Yorkers to find acceptance and respite from everyday conflicts. The disco was a democratic hangout, whoever you happened to be.

Time passed and a publisher proposed a book commission. Bernstein and a writer would document New York’s nightlife in words and pictures, a permanent record of these underground 70s scenes, from the fabulosity of the Empire Roller Disco to the gay abandon of the Paradise Garage. Except things didn’t quite pan out as hoped…

Disco Bill Bernstein photo of Empire Roller Disco
Paradise Garage DJ Larry Levan by bill berstein
Bill bernstein Paradise Garage Dance Floor 1979

It was the end of the 70s, disco music had become mainstream and there was a rock backlash, culminating in an anti-disco demo that turned into a full-blown riot. Aids had started to claim lives and the frenetic freedom of the scene was giving way to a culture of fear. There were changes at the publishing house, the original editor departed and others were less invested in the project. The book was somewhat neglected. Instead of the richly-produced publication that Bernstein had envisaged, the result was Night Dancin’, a low-production, soft back affair (which nevertheless, over time acquired its own charm, becoming something of a collectors’ item in music circles).

Disco Bill Bernstein
Disco Bill Bernstein 2
Disco Bill Bernstein 4
Bill Bernstein Disco 6

Fast forward to 2002 and a British music producer, David Hill had an idea. He owned a copy of the out-of-print Night Dancin’ and not knowing the back story, decided to track down the photographer to propose an updated version of the book. Thirteen years later, the resulting Disco, is a beautiful, large format tribute to the democracy of the dance floor, in which the focus is squarely on the everyday punters, not the rich and famous of Studio 54.

As Bernstein points out in his introduction, “the disco was a haven of acceptance and inclusion. It was much more than celebrities, drugs and music – the disco was a state of mind. For a brief period of time, discos offered a place where everyone – white, black, Hispanic, straight, LGBT, young, old, famous, or not so famous – could meet up and party without judgment or prejudice.” My favourite shots are of the young rollerskaters of the Empire Roller Disco and the glamorous barefoot groovers of Xenon (top). I’ve turned these pages a hundred times and always notice something new. While individually, the pictures are wonderful vignettes of stories within stories, as a whole, Disco serves as an uplifting symbol of unity, in which class, colour, sexuality and the rest are of little concern. For those few hours, in those long gone clubs, all that matters is the music, the dancing and the freedom. Long live the disco…

Studio 54 Disco Bill Bernstein

Disco: The Bill Bernstein Photographs (£40, Reel Art Press) is available HERE and HERE. The exhibition, Bill Berstein – Disco, is at Serena Morton II, 343-345 Ladbroke Grove, W10 until 23rd January 2016 (currently closed, reopening 11th January).

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Bill Bernstein

Quote of The Day: Steven Philip

Vivienne Westwood collection Kim Jones

“People didn’t buy 32 pairs of Jimmy Choos and Louboutins. People didn’t have 16 pairs of sunglasses. People didn’t have 22 dresses. They just didn’t. (more…)

On Louis Vuitton, Christopher Nemeth and the enduring appeal of nostalgic style

Louis Vuitton Aw15 Christopher Nemeth

Over on Facebook, there’s an amazing group that’s popped up in the last few months celebrating and often reliving the days of 80s-90s UK club culture. Called Bring The Noise!! Our Story!! Our History!! it covers rave, rare groove, the Mud Club, Buffalo, World’s End and basically, the whole gamut of style and music references that any Londoner going out during the glory years of the 80s and early 90s will greedily gobble up. Even better, people are digging out old club flyers and membership cards from their attics and uploading long forgotten photos of themselves in their clubbing clobber that’s stirring up quite a few long-buried memories. (more…)