Tag Archives: JW Anderson
It feels like Selfridges has been tweaking its third floor Designer Galleries for ever! Finally its finished and the verdict is quite the A-Z of modern luxury fashion. In short, the Selfridges buy has been Dover Street Market-ified. (And that sentence right there gets the award for clunkiest sentence of the year. Soz.) I still remember the third floor as it was eons ago – contemporary labels like Anglomania alongside A.P.C, Whistles and Joseph. Pffft, this is so not that. Contemporary and denim have all been shunted up to the fourth floor, leaving gleaming aisles of expensive statement-wear. Of course, I can’t actually afford any of it.
It’s a textbook exercise in taste and wealth though. At one end you have the cash cows – generous amounts of space given to Chanel, Prada, Celine, Dries Van Noten et al to set out their stalls to best demonstrate their vision. Celine’s is bright and spare, all the better to show off its pops of primary-hued handbags amongst the discreet neutrals. Dries is tactile and opulent. Louis Vuitton gets the top spot, its area is part of a dedicated three-storey fit-out complete with its own swivelling lift. Alaia, Saint Laurent and McQueen round out the offer.
In the middle section there are the new gen giants – think Givenchy, Balenciaga, Tom Ford. And also the Brit brigade – Roksanda, Pilotto, Kane and Preen all representing. These are the brands adored by today’s luxury millennials, they’re seen as edgy and cool but unmistakably expensive. Look at those embellished sweatshirts and know that this is not your mother’s Givenchy. And the Dover Street Market factor? It’s there in those squishy Loewe pouffes and geometric handbags. And there in the Sacai hybrid outerwear. And most definitely there in that wall of Rick Owenses, not to mention the rails of J.W. Andersons and Simone Rochas. There’s not one dud piece in all that lot that I wouldn’t snap up tomorrow if I won the lottery.
Of course, should you just want something clean and classic, you’re not neglected. The opposite end of the floor has Jil Sander, MaxMara, a ton of Chloe, plus my secret fetish – Brunello Cucinelli. If Chanel and Rick Owens are for the rich kids, I suspect this is the moms’ playground.
It’s certainly the dream retail experience for the monied international customer, with a killer buy from the important brands. It’s presented beautifully with service to match (attentive but not pushy). And increasingly, the online inventory is starting to replicate the store offer. Yes, a few brands resist; there’s no way to buy Celine short of getting your butt into a bricks & mortar store. But others I guess know that having their product on a site like Selfridges.com ups brand awareness as well as giving a better idea of the riches that await you when you visit. For starters, there’s a full complement of Dries and a fair bit of Comme. Here’s my fantasy edit…
London designers are known for their youthful experimentation but they’ve becoming equally adept at delivering polished wearability. Day two’s highlights included Lucas Nascimento’s sheer, precision-cut layers (above and below), Joseph’s serene sportswear and Whistles’ luxe leather separates.
Even J.W Anderson surprised with extreme commerciality on his catwalk (combined with clever creativity of course), giving us that spring perennial ‘nautical chic’ his way, involving strategic cut-outs and rope details all accessorised with fetishy floppy leather hats. Continue reading
Oh, what a busy year it’s proving to be for London’s Dover Street Market. This month marks its tenth year and to celebrate it’s doing what it does best, collaborating with its fashion friends to create more retail excitement than ever.
Let’s not forget, when Dover Street Market opened in 2004 it was the first store of its kind, a weird and wonderful melange of mega-brands, just-emerging designers and street wear – ever changing and always unpredictable. Twice a year it operates its ‘tachiagari‘, shutting up shop for three days while it installs a completely new vision for the new season.
This year, following its tachiagari in July, it’s shaken things up again by adding a scattering of ‘market stalls’ (complete with striped awnings) selling DSM souvenirs to delight the store’s avid retail tourists. Continue reading
Jonathan Anderson’s new-look Loewe has has rave reviews so far, with its reworked logo, ad campaign and SS15 menswear all giddily received by the critics. For spring-summer 2015, Anderson’s inspiration came from pre-rave Ibiza references so it’s heavy on rustic-looking but luxurious fabrics and simple, bohemian shapes (given Anderson’s ultra-modern ambi-sexual treatment).
It’s all go at J W Anderson. Jonathan Anderson’s new London HQ is up and running, complete with shiny new CEO. Stratgies are in place to launch an ecommerce website (due 16th June) that represents this very millennial luxury brand, while a pricing structure is also in place to appeal to its equally millennial customer (my understanding is that prices will come down slightly). Continue reading
As you may have noticed, I’m quite fascinated by the growing commercialisation of Fashion Week. More than anyone, Topshop has been instrumental in making Fashion Week accessible to all, via its sponsorships and collabs with LFW designers, it’s unsurpassed social media LFW coverage, its just announced Facebook hook-up and most recently, its pop-up shops at the LFW sites. Continue reading
Sad but true: I have the heating on in July. Retailers are taking advantage by pumping out their early fall merchandise – jumpers, jackets and coats – to compensate for the lack of summer pick-up. You can’t blame them, winterwear makes more money than summer because knits cost thrice as much as tees. Ah well, here’s my early fall fantasy shopping list…
ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT:
TOP: J W Anderson top, £360; Maison Martin Margiela jacket, £599; Christian Louboutin shoes, £495
MIDDLE: Chloe sweater, £575; Balenciaga skirt, £419; Acne jacket, £850
BOTTOM: A.P.C. blouse, £165; Chloe boots, £743; Isabel Marant sweater, £265
My last day of men’s fashion week was a short one as I only had two shows. JW Anderson was as unexpected as expected – a medley of flat-coloured knits, asymmetric coats and clingy jerseys, contrasted with roomy pinstripe tailoring and Jonathan’s favourite chunky-soled shoes. As always, there was a play on gender conventions, so we had sheer applique separates and skewed headscarves added to the mix. Definitely one of the most memorable collections of the weekend
I tried to keep this brief but it didn’t happen so here goes. First up: Margaret Howell. You don’t get many surprises here but that’s OK. With some designers I like to know what I’m getting and for AW12 we’re getting the perfect white shirt, trad fairisles, fitted twinsets, schoolgirl box-pleated skirts, indestructable tweed trench coats (an update on my navy wool one that kept the biting chill out all weekend) and boyish blazers. To finish off – low side ponytails, penny loafers and darling little olive green Tam-o-shanter hats. Continue reading