When Charlotte Olympia’s Charlotte Dellal picks a theme, she really loves to roll with it. And so for her pre-fall ‘Untitled’ collection, she’s gone all out for art references. Taking inspiration from the mid-20th-century greats, Dali, Cocteau and Kandinsky, her signature clutches turn into conversation pieces with their Dali lips and Kandinsky-esque abstract patterns. And of course, the famous Kitty flats are all present and correct with their own sprinkling of colourful Kandinsky magic. For me though, it’s all about the Jean Cocteau-inspired silhouette clutches, which look like something he himself might have created…
The first one’s in Paris and is only on for the blink of an eye (January 20 – February 7 2015) so this is wishful thinking really. ‘Jean Cocteau, une donation américaine – Robert Rubin‘ sees forty works from the collection of American art historian Robert Rubin (including collage work and portraits by the likes of Cecil Beaton) shown together at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation. (more…)
What next for Valextra? It’s a shame Design Director Alvaro Gonzalez has left the building, I thought things were going so well. It’s still one of my favourite artisanal luxury brands though – any guesses who’s in next? (more…)
Sorry PRs but my big highlight of Paris Fashion Week wasn’t the shows or the parties but the new exhibition, Dries Van Noten: Inspirations. Showing at the Arts Decoratifs Museum until 31st August, Dries Van Noten and curator Pamela Golbin have coincidentally created an assemblage of exhibits that encompasses a number of my own favourite themes.
Downstairs is big on the foppish overlaps of masculinity and femininity, the romance of youth subcultures and a fascination with British monarchy and society. As you enter the exhibition through Azuma Makoto’s giant floral fantasia, you’re greeted by a room wallpapered with pop culture references. From camp Divine posters to Interview magazine covers, these are easily recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 80s. Dries Van Noten’s early designs from his student days at the Antwerp Royal Academy (his 1981 sun motif coat looks especially contemporary) sit alongside influential pieces by Kenzo, Mugler, Versace and Worlds End-era Westwood, culled from the museum’s own archive.
The subsequent vitrines are grouped in themes such as ‘Iconclast’, ‘Graphic’ and ‘Butterflies’ and display seemingly disparate items – a film clip, artwork or ancient textile piece – alongside examples from a chosen Dries Van Noten collection, to demonstrate his creative through process. It’s funny to think this is the first time a designer exhibition (it’s not billed as a retrospective) has been presented this way because it really makes a lot of sense in revealing the common passions and aesthetics of the brand and the man. (more…)