Gotta love that pretty much the whole Gucci AW15 collection went into production, mostly unmodified from what we saw on the runway. And if you break it down without the styling and kooky casting, you get desirable, wearable and very commercial clothes (goat hair Dougal-from-Magic-Roundabout-style slippers excepted).
My eye is on the tailored suits which have lived-in creases pressed into them but are immaculately cut. And also the fur-lined snaffle-trim slippers (the clogs, not so much). Also, a note on the jewellery. I don’t think Gucci has ever been known for jewellery but we know Alessandro Michele loves his chunky rings so I can see these becoming a bit of a thing. The entry point for the smaller rings is around £200 but be warned, prices go much higher for the real show stoppers…
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. CHANEL TO STAGE MADEMOISELLE PRIVE EXHIBITION
It seems like Chanel is never out of the news and this week it’s to announce a forthcoming exhibition that celebrates the heritage of the house. Luxury brands are getting very skilled at these ‘immersive’ exhibitions, which take visitors on a storytelling journey through how the past informs the present. For this one, the Chanel Mademoiselle Privé exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery will focus on the haute couture, the 1932 high jewellery collection and Chanel No 5. Despite the name, the exhibition will focus on both Gabrielle Chanel’s and Karl Lagerfeld’s influence.
2. GUCCI TO DOVER STREET MARKET
The next stage of the cool-ification of Gucci? A concession at Dover Street Market. Joining Celine and Saint Laurent, it will have its own little corner of DSM in all four stores (starting with Tokyo this weekend). The first look reveals suitably Grey Gardens-esque visual merchandising, with powder pink carpet and velvet buttoned screens.
3.GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY X TIMUR NOVIKOV
In other DSM news, a collaboration between Gosha Rubchinskiy and Russian Artist Timur Novikov has just launched exclusively at Dover Street Market, London. Rubchinsky has translated Novikov’s naive, graphic motifs into his signature casual tees and shorts.
4 FAREWELL FIORUCCI
Last week bid a sad and sudden goodbye to Elio Fiorucci, one of the true architects of modern fashion. His optimistic vision embraced fashion, music, experiential retail and I guess lifestyle as we know it now. And who can forget the incredible post-pop graphics used on store branding, carrier bags, advertising imagery and clothing? It’s said that he was working on a book and I remember that Opening Ceremony’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon had expressed a desire to collaborate. Perhaps we’ll see his estate re-release some fabulous creations to commemorate? Until then, expect to see his influence infiltrate the next couple of seasons’ fashion collections as Tumblr and Instagram explode with his references.
So, after many a furrowed brow and clenched jaw, the fash pack has come round to Alessando Michele’s vision for Gucci. I liked it from the first, rushed menswear AW15 collection, which repeated itself in essence for womenswear AW15. We have just seen Cruise 2016 presented in New York, more young, studious-looking models in vintage-inspired threads of a non-specific nature. Michele’s schtick seems to be about the romance and human touch of fashion, hence his Cruise show was presented as girls walking in off the street into a setting of Persian rugs and toile de jouy chairs. Clever and relatable. And beautiful too. (more…)
I’m not sure I can handle any more Royal Tenenbaums references, but these Bally AW15colour combinations are pretty sublime. Bally has moved on its minimalist, slightly masculine cuts from the last couple of seasons to arrive at something prettier and resembling – dare I say it – Gucci! A happy accident, or a strategic move I wonder? (more…)