Tag Archives: fashion shows
One of my highlights of Paris Fashion Week was the Lanvin AW14 re-see. On a huge scale, this is where you get to see the commercial workings of Fashion Week at play, where buyers view the pieces they’re really going to stock, and write their orders on the spot. The vast space (a 1920s former railway depot) was a hive of activity, it even had a pop-up café to keep the buyers and clerks fed and watered while crunching those numbers.
I was guided through both the catwalk collections and the commercial collections so I could see the pieces close up and learn what sells and what doesn’t. The theme for AW14 was extremism, experimentation and extravagance, shown on the runway with Edwardian-esque styling of romantic picture hats and elbow-hugging gloves. With a dark palette, it was useful to see the myriad fabrics and textures at close quarters; fake and real furs, loose salt-n-pepper tweeds and sheer gauzes designed to suggest movement and lightness.
A shaggy wool fringed coat from the runway collection had shaved sides while a ‘leather’ trench turned out to be fake leather “for better movement”. Fabric experimentation here is the key – think a sheer gauze shell top with wool and tinsel woven into it and feather and knitted wool transformed into a tactile mini shift dress. The colour-block fringing was one of my standouts, expertly placed on dresses in varying lengths to keep the eye travelling.
After being walked through the catwalk collection on one side of the room, we switched over to the commercial collection where I was surprised to discover that a pair of posh jersey track pants are a perennial best seller. This is the interesting part of re-sees, you get to look at a collection with commercial eyes and appreciate how a designer balances dreams and desires against what people really wear. In that sense, it’s kind of true what they say about ready-to-wear being more like couture while the commercial and pre-collections do the job of ready-to-wear. The experimental pieces may not surface much further than the rails in this showroom but they do the job of delivering the brand statement loud and clear. That said, Lanvin has the freedom to be risk-taking in its commercial offer too. “As an independent, we can produce things like fur without worrying if it will sell,” I was told. Less polarising were the twisted ribbed knits, especially one in deep magenta, a welcome splash of colour.
As with many RTW brands, bags and shoes are a big old deal for Lanvin so naturally there was a huge area dedicated to them (alongside those dreamy feathered hats and some impossibly elegant gloves). I made a beeline for the cutaway pumps and flat ankle boots, while the multi-way bag was flagged up as popular with the buyers. I suspect the theatrical hats will wend their way into a few order books too, we all had a go at trying them on. Extremism, experimentation and extravagance may well be the look for Lanvin AW14 but underscoring that is a cache of pragmatic, crowd-pleasing product that promises to move swiftly on the shop floor.
CLICK BELOW TO SHOP AW14 LANVIN
Leaving aside if there’s anything ‘new’ being said at Saint Laurent, on a basic ‘want’ level there’s plenty I found to love from the menswear SS15 show. Admittedly, the menswear appealed more than the women’s pieces, but then I’ve always had a thing for Cuban-heel boots and rocker jeans and those ultra-thin scarf arrangements. Continue reading
I always like the sneak previews of womenswear that Prada shows on its menswear runway. As the men’s collections are shown a full three months ahead of women’s it gives us a good idea of the direction, not just for Prada but for fashion overall*.
This collection led us back to Miuccia’s 60-70s roots, with a more everyday look than her sometimes fantastical offerings. It also reminded me a lot of 90s Prada. The camel sweater, rigid denim and crystal-adorned slingbacks get my vote… Continue reading
What a month it’s been for Cruise shows! And it doesn’t stop, because today sees the first ever Louis Vuitton Cruise show, taking place in Monaco at 6pm GMT.
Cruise shows are clearly the new RTW and I don’t know whether to envy or pity the editors and VIPs being flown from one continent to another in this vast show of
excess newness and grandeur.
Pull up a pouffe next to me and watch the live stream here….
Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.
Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. Continue reading
Two days into London Fashion Week and, as with New York, the arctic temperatures are having a definite impact. Not just in what the guests have been wearing at Somerset House (rain ponchos and fur trims outstrip open toes), but on the runway itself. Continue reading
New York Fashion Week is in full swing and London editors are gearing up for LFW which is three days away. With IMG and various New York designers rethinking their blogger strategy, the conversation continues to rage around the current and future role of fashion weeks and their associated ‘circus’.
I took part in a panel discussion on this very subject a couple of weeks ago with WGSN. We did it as a live Google Hangout and the panel also included Quynh Mai, founder of digital agency Moving Image & Content, WGSN’s senior arts editor Elle Hankinson, Fashionista’s editor-in-chief Lauren Indvik, and was hosted by WGSN’s senior digital media editor, Rachel Arthur. Continue reading
“We are either stuck behind a rope or have to compete with snotty-nosed kids who get in your way as they shoot crap on their iPhones”
Sean Cunningham, because magazine
Fascinating insight on the trials and tribulations of the backstage Fashion Week photographer in this story by Camilla Morton
It’s easy to forget that Marc Jacob’s early shows for Vuitton were much more pared back than what we see now. There are hardly any catwalk pictures online from that time but I absolutely love this video of the AW 1998 Louis Vuitton show (above), featuring Naomi Campbell, Kirsten Owen and a demure-looking Gisele. Any of these looks would easily look current today.