Tag Archives: Dries Van Noten

Retail report: Selfridges ramps up its luxury ready-to-wear with a nod to Dover Street Market

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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It feels like Selfridges has been tweaking its third floor Designer Galleries for ever! Finally its finished and the verdict is quite the A-Z of modern luxury fashion. In short, the Selfridges buy has been Dover Street Market-ified. (And  that sentence right there gets the award for clunkiest sentence of the year. Soz.) I still remember the third floor as it was eons ago – contemporary labels like Anglomania alongside A.P.C, Whistles and Joseph. Pffft, this is so not that. Contemporary and denim have all been shunted up to the fourth floor, leaving gleaming aisles of expensive statement-wear. Of course, I can’t actually afford any of it.

It’s a textbook exercise in taste and wealth though. At one end you have the cash cows – generous amounts of space given to Chanel, Prada, Celine, Dries Van Noten et al to set out their stalls to best demonstrate their vision. Celine’s is bright and spare, all the better to show off its pops of primary-hued handbags amongst the discreet neutrals. Dries is tactile and opulent. Louis Vuitton gets the top spot, its area is part of a dedicated three-storey fit-out complete with its own swivelling lift. Alaia, Saint Laurent and McQueen round out the offer.

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In the middle section there are the new gen giants – think Givenchy, Balenciaga, Tom Ford. And also the Brit brigade – Roksanda, Pilotto, Kane and Preen all representing. These are the brands adored by today’s luxury millennials, they’re seen as edgy and cool but unmistakably expensive. Look at those embellished sweatshirts and know that this is not your mother’s Givenchy. And the Dover Street Market factor? It’s there in those squishy Loewe pouffes and geometric handbags. And there in the Sacai hybrid outerwear. And most definitely there in that wall of Rick Owenses, not to mention the rails of J.W. Andersons and Simone Rochas. There’s not one dud piece in all that lot that I wouldn’t snap up tomorrow if I won the lottery.

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Of course, should you just want something clean and classic, you’re not neglected. The opposite end of the floor has Jil Sander, MaxMara, a ton of Chloe, plus my secret fetish – Brunello Cucinelli. If Chanel and Rick Owens are for the rich kids, I suspect this is the moms’ playground.

It’s certainly the dream retail experience for the monied international customer, with a killer buy from the important brands. It’s presented beautifully with service to match (attentive but not pushy). And increasingly, the online inventory is starting to replicate the store offer. Yes, a few brands resist; there’s no way to buy Celine short of getting your butt into a bricks & mortar store. But others I guess know that having their product on a site like Selfridges.com ups brand awareness as well as giving a better idea of the riches that await you when you visit. For starters, there’s a full complement of Dries and a fair bit of Comme. Here’s my fantasy edit…

Paris Fashion Week: Dries Van Noten’s eclectic inspirations

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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Sorry PRs but my big highlight of Paris Fashion Week wasn’t the shows or the parties but the new exhibition, Dries Van Noten: Inspirations. Showing at the Arts Decoratifs Museum until 31st August, Dries Van Noten and curator Pamela Golbin have coincidentally created an assemblage of exhibits that encompasses a number of my own favourite themes.

Downstairs is big on the foppish overlaps of masculinity and femininity, the romance of youth subcultures and a fascination with British monarchy and society. As you enter the exhibition through Azuma Makoto’s giant floral fantasia, you’re greeted by a room wallpapered with pop culture references. From camp Divine posters to Interview magazine covers, these are easily recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 80s. Dries Van Noten’s early designs from his student days at the Antwerp Royal Academy (his 1981 sun motif coat looks especially contemporary) sit alongside influential pieces by Kenzo, Mugler, Versace and Worlds End-era Westwood, culled from the museum’s own archive.

The subsequent vitrines are grouped in themes such as ‘Iconclast’, ‘Graphic’ and ‘Butterflies’ and display seemingly disparate items – a film clip, artwork or ancient textile piece – alongside examples from a chosen Dries Van Noten collection, to demonstrate his creative through process. It’s funny to think this is the first time a designer exhibition (it’s not billed as a retrospective) has been presented this way because it really makes a lot of sense in revealing the common passions and aesthetics of the brand and the man. Continue reading

Dries van Noten – up close

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Dries van Noten store in Paris

I’m in Paris for a few days to do some shows, some re-sees, some window shopping and hopefully to get a first look at the Dries Van Noten exhibition. To prep myself I swung by the Dries shop in Quai Malaquais. I managed to take a sneaky photo – isn’t it gorgeous? Continue reading

Quote of the day: Dries van Noten

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Dries Van Noten Paris autumn/winter 2013

“People get this very romantic vision of a fashion designer who in one night makes 25 sketches and in the morning throws them on the table and there are a lot of women in white aprons with the pins on the lapel and they start to grab the sketches and… It’s not like that. Forget it! It’s lists, it’s computers, it’s meetings, it’s planning, it’s organising. It’s all these things.”
Dries Van Noten, The Telegraph

I can’t wait to see Dries Van Noten: Inspiration at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris this weekend!

[Image: The Guardian]

Borrowed from the boys: masculine florals

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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I mean really, what are these fab floral jackets and knits doing on the menswear rails when they should be adorning the hangers in my wardrobe? From Prada’s shirts (love these Leibowitz ad pics) to Dries’ tonal jackets, to H&M’s heavily inspired Harrington, I would happily wear any and all of these masculine florals… Continue reading

Beauty snippets: the fashionisation of beauty, Dries Van Noten X Chanel, Jo Malone London, Marni, Aerin Lauder, Downton Abbey

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THE NEW YORK TIMES ON THE FASHIONISATION OF BEAUTY
In the same week that Marc Jacobs Beauty leaked a handful of its products on Sephora, (the entire range officially launches next month), the New York Times wrote a story on how fashion designers are innovating in make-up. Highlights include the influence of Chanel, Dior and Alber Elbaz. You can read the whole story hereContinue reading

Buy it now: Spring picks

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

I’m cautious with spring shopping as I don’t like to get too optimistic about the weather. So with the Fendi sleeveless blouse there’s a Thomas Tait leather jacket and to accompany the Theory shorts, an Ostwald Helgason sweatshirt. The Dries Van Noten lace-ups are an all-year-round option, as is the Chloe ring. (P.S, you might like to know that there’s free shipping on full-price merch over £100 at Farfetch until Thursday…)


ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT:
TOP: Olympia le Tan bag; Dries van Noten shoes; Fendi blouse
MIDDLE: Ostwald Helgason sweatshirt; Chloe ring; Theory shorts
BOTTOM: Thomas Tait jacket; Marc Jacobs Dot eau de parfum; Topshop platforms

Beauty buy: Dries van Noten X Frederic Malle

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Twitter has been all aflutter this morning at the announcement by WWD of a Dries van Noten fragrance coming this month. Digging further, the fragrance is an ‘olfactory portrait’ of Dries van Noten, as opposed to a brand fragrance and is created by Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums. The notes are a concoction of citron, sandalwood, guaiac wood, saffron, Spanish jasmine, tonka beans, Cashmeran/blonde woods, vanilla and musk. Something tells me it will be a bit of a unisex scent.

This is what the bottle looks like…

I think this is going to be another addition to my ‘fragrance library’, alongside the Marni, Tom Ford Noir, Chanel Jersey and Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir currently on rotation. It will be available on February 15th.

UPDATE 27th Feb: It’s been spotted in Liberty so I’ll be heading down there for a sniff. In the meantime, here’s a video of Frederic Malle and Dries van Noten talking about the collaboration…

Dries Van Noten by Frédéric Malle from EDP FM on Vimeo.

Styling masterclass: Dries Van Noten SS13

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I was so bowled over by the styling in the Dries Van Noten show, I thought I’d break it down in a blog post. Taken separately, each piece of the Dries collection is a beautiful, timeless workhorse. Weightless tea dresses, wrap jackets, sheer plaid shirts and patterned pants. Nothing new there. Put them together just so, with complementary hair, make-up and hands-in-pocket attitude and you have a bucketload of reasons why everyone (including me) will be referencing DVN this season, consciously or not. Continue reading

H&M magazine: the rise of the stylist

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

One of the things I love about watching the shows is sussing out the styling. The bigger brands use the best stylists in the biz to tell the ‘story’ of the collection and show how the clothes can be worn, something you’re just never going to get from seeeing pieces hung on a rail. Those Prada tabi socks, the Dries Van Noten layers, the white sunglasses at Rochas, they’re all trends waiting to be translated to the street that will help the designers sell even more of their wares and chances are, those ideas come from the stylist. Continue reading

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