While here in the UK we’ve had an extremely mild autumn and stores grumble that they haven’t sold enough AW14 coats, the fashion-forward customer is onto other things. Namely, Cruise. The Cruise 2015 collections arrived in November and continue to sell all the way until June. It’s a well known fact now that Cruise (and pre-fall) collections sell more for stores than the more directional spring-summer and autumn-winter collections.
Last week I went to Louis Vuitton to check out the SS15 collection. The press day was help in the private ‘apartment’ on the top floor of the Bond Street Maison. Afterwards I went for a nose around the store as I haven’t been in since Ghesquiere took over from Jacobs. Although it wasn’t that busy customer-wise, the store staff were being very industrious keeping their regular clients up to date with new deliveries. As they explained to me, the Cruise collection had recently arrived and was flying out as soon as they informed their customers. (more…)
I haven’t been on a horse since a school trip to Mr Puddy’s farm in 1986 but I’m quietly lusting after Gucci’s Cruise 2013 equestrian collection. The 15-piece capsule collection includes performance-grade jodhpurs, polos and riding jacket, plus a horse blanket, nappa gloves, whip-printed foulard scarf and the poshest riding cap ever… (more…)
This season sees the Resort/Cruise collections go mainstream. As customers are increasingly fashion-aware and exposed to newness 24/7, the onus is on designers to give them more fashion, more frequently. Whereas Cruise used to be something of an also-ran (see this article from 1988!), this season it’s become an event in itself with proper celebs – witness Jennifer Lopez, Charlize Theron and Christina Aguilera at Dior – and coverage in the dailies.
This quote from Karl Lagerfeld on Style.com sums it up:
“It’s not Resort anymore. It’s another collection—in the story of Fall, pre-Fall, Paris/London, pre-Spring, Spring—called “cruise.” It’s like a code name, but the thing is that Chanel needs six ready-to-wear collections a year, every two months completely new things at the shops. There are hundreds of shops all over the world that have to have something new all the time or else there’s no reason to go back. Or else you go to a place like Colette where they see 100 labels. If it’s one label, this label needs to have something new all the time.”