Tag Archives: couture
Oh the suspense! As rumours continue to bounce around about exactly who will be wielding the golden shears at Schiaparelli, I’m happy about the latest nugget of info: Christian Lacroix will design a one-off couture collection of 15 pieces to be unveiled at Place Vendôme in July.
Other than designing delicious posh stationery and working with Camilla Morton on a fairy story, I’m not really sure what Mr Lacroix has been busying himself with since his house went into administration in 2009. But I’m totally ready to see what ravishing beauty will emerge from his imagination in homage to Elsa Schiaparelli. Coincidentally (or not?), the latest name in the frame for the main Schiaparelli creative director gig is one Marco Zanini of Rochas. Zanini is another favourite of mine with an eye for the historical who also embraces modernity. I love the story Zanini told Lula magazine, that at the age of 16, he started sending letters and sketches to Lacroix who wrote back with encouraging words. How sweet is that? And how spooky!
We saw mutated versions of it at Raf Simons’ debut Dior couture show last July, and now Bruno Frisoni has updated the original in silver mirror leather and pink mink for Roger Vivier’s Rendez-Vous collection AW13. The iconic ‘Comma’ shoe, designed by Vivier in the 1950s was a precursor to the stiletto. As shoe designer for Dior, his creations set the benchmark in footwear design for years to come, and the bent, squat ‘Comma’ was one of his best.
Fast forward to 2013 and we’re seeing more versions of those inwards- and outwards-curved heels, both from the house of Dior and from the house of Vivier and in short and tall versions. For Dior RTW SS13 they’re tall, slightly flared and bent inwards, while at yesterday’s Dior couture show they were super-slender and came in bright metallics and chalky shades. Let’s see if the ‘Comma”s influence spreads further…
Original Roger Vivier ‘Comma’ heel 1957
Love this mesmerising treatment of a catwalk show, using slow motion and choppy editing to show detail and drama…