collabs

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: DIOR, VOGUE, PRADA, SONIA RYKIEL X LANCOME, CHAMPION

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. DIOR FINALLY NAMES ITS NEW DESIGNER
Maria Grazia Chiuri heads to Dior as artistic director
An exciting week for Dior, who finally named Maria Grazia Chiuri as its incoming artistic director. I wasn’t convinced by the other suggestions but I love Chiuri’s work at Valentino and it will be interesting to see her take on modern femininity at Dior. Oh and let’s not forget possibly the real reason she’s been hired. Accessories, baby! Dior’s shoes and bags are about to get a lot more attention. We won’t have long to wait to see the results, Chiuri starts next week with her first show slated for September 30th.


2. VOGUE ARABIA LAUNCHES

Vogue Arabia
Just when you thought the magazine industry was dying on its knees (that’s all I’ve been hearing lately), Condé Nast reveals a new launch. Vogue Arabia is in the works (to be edited by Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, above) but the interesting part is it’s launching with a website first, with print to follow later. Style.com Arabia has the story.


3. PRADA IS COMING TO NET-A-PORTER

Prada by Virginia Arcaro via Dazed
‘Luxury brand embraces e-commerce’ so shouldn’t be news, but, well it is. Prada is set to launch on Net-a-Porter, Mr Porter and Mytheresa, with Net-a-Porter’s delivery coming as soon as next week (diarise Friday 15th).


4. SONIA RYKIEL X LANCÔME

Sonia Rykiel X Lancome collab
Coming very soon: this colourful collab from Sonia Rykiel X Lancôme. Tapping into the signature stripes and playful élan of Rykiel, I’m all about the illustrated packaging. The Sonia Rykiel Draws Paris for Lancôme collection launches in August.


5. THE CHAMPION EFFECT

Vetements X Champion collaboration for SS17
Normcore fave Champion was thrilled to work with Vetements as one of its favoured best-of-the-best brands to partner with for ss17. Racked has an interview with Champion’s Chief Global Design Officer here to explain its enduring appeal.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Prada by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

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Hand drawn

Jigsaw White Poplin Wrap Shirt

Do go and see the Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition at Tate Modern if you can. As well as the flower paintings, New Mexico landscapes and some lovely early synesthesia-inspired abstracts, there’s a room of Alfred Stieglitz photographs of O’Keeffe.

The photos of her hands are pretty well known and for good reason. (more…)

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: Fila, Sacai X Apple, Mulberry, Mr Hare, Cartier

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. FEELING THE FILA LOVE

Fila X Urban Outfitters
So you liked and loved Gosha’s homage to 80s casuals, yes? And now you want a Fila T-shirt? I don’t blame you, that’s how these things work. My guess is Fila will find itself miraculously anointed with a halo of cool overnight. Here’s the latest Fila drop at Urban Outfitters for starters… (more…)

Raf loves Robert

Raf Simons ss17
Generally positive reactions to Raf Simons’ ode to Robert Mapplethorpe last week in Florence. The revered 80s photographer is having a moment, after his retrospective exhibitions at LACMA and The Getty Center in Los Angeles (and the HBO documentary Mapplethorpe: Look at the Pictures) reminded us of the breadth of his output. As with Gosha, Raf is well versed in finding ways to demonstrate his passions while keeping to his signature house codes.

So, haphazardly oversized silhouettes continue to dominate, as do the cut-and-paste, collagy motifs familiar to any Raf fan-boy (or girl). The collaboration was initiated by the Mapplethorpe camp and eagerly embraced by Raf. As well as recognisable portraits of Debbie Harry, Patti Smith and Robert Sherman, other recurring Mapplethorpe themes included male nudes, antique statues and elegant flower photographs.

These were artfully and respectfully placed by Raf, framed in the open neckline of a slouchy sweater, on the bib of a dungaree, or arranged in triplicate down the side of a shirt. As Raf commented to the FT (registration required), “I wanted to approach it like when you do an exhibition at a museum or a gallery, but of course the medium is so different. Which was a big challenge, because otherwise you have T-shirt with prints which is what most people do but which I don’t find very respectful.”

Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate

While the naked male member glimpsed on a shirt was seen by some as deliberately provocative, it was the flower prints that grabbed my attention. They reminded me of my Raf-for-Dior flower placement sweatshirt from SS14 along with an orchid-print silk square scarf. But to anyone unfamiliar with Mapplethorpe’s work, they just represented covetable, wearable pieces.

To accompany the show, Raf produced an exhibition of his 20-year-old archive, which helped to reinforce his recurrent themes. The oversized white shirts and layered, cropped knits, the peekaboo photo placements, they’re all Raf signatures that we know and love. Yet how perfectly they translate as canvases for Mapplethorpe’s work…
Raf Simons ss17
6 Raf Simons ss17
7 Raf Simons ss17 Vogue Runway
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons Robert Mapplethorpe collaboration SS17
Raf Simons ss17 Vogue Runway

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue Runway; Yu Fujiwara for W magazine
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

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