Business of Fashion

Gentlewoman Style: New Celine AW19



Celine AW19

Funny isn’t it, how quickly one adapts. In one season the media and public have flipped from hating Hedi’s take on Celine to kind of loving it.

When Hedi Slimane showed his first vision of new Celine, Phoebe Philo’s fan club were bereft. They swarmed to Vestiaire Collective to buy up whatever Phoebe-era #oldceline bags and shoes they could get their hands on, freaking out that her conceptual-lite aesthetic had been obliterated by evil Hedi in place of – the horror! – generic luxury tropes of the sort he’d previously produced at Saint Laurent.

Six months later though, they’ve calmed down and come round. (more…)



Bulk buy and long tail – can Wardrobe NYC work?



Wardrobe NYC capsule wardrobe puffa


Wardrobe NYC
, a new concept for fashion, works by delivering pieces in ‘packs’ rather than individually. So rather than buying a jacket or a top, you’re committed to buying a bulk set of clothes that work together.

Crucially, the design is immaculately considered for the fad-averse gentlewoman (or man) who just wants good clothes. Behind the concept are Australian designer Josh Goot and Louis Vuitton stylist Christine Centenera. (more…)



Quote of the day: Séverine Merle



Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine on the new menswear strategy

“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”

Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine, Financial Times (reg req). This is a great read on the new Celine menswear strategy. (more…)



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein :(



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein

Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.

It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denim and those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)