Tag Archives: brands

Retail report: Selfridges ramps up its luxury ready-to-wear with a nod to Dover Street Market

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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It feels like Selfridges has been tweaking its third floor Designer Galleries for ever! Finally its finished and the verdict is quite the A-Z of modern luxury fashion. In short, the Selfridges buy has been Dover Street Market-ified. (And  that sentence right there gets the award for clunkiest sentence of the year. Soz.) I still remember the third floor as it was eons ago – contemporary labels like Anglomania alongside A.P.C, Whistles and Joseph. Pffft, this is so not that. Contemporary and denim have all been shunted up to the fourth floor, leaving gleaming aisles of expensive statement-wear. Of course, I can’t actually afford any of it.

It’s a textbook exercise in taste and wealth though. At one end you have the cash cows – generous amounts of space given to Chanel, Prada, Celine, Dries Van Noten et al to set out their stalls to best demonstrate their vision. Celine’s is bright and spare, all the better to show off its pops of primary-hued handbags amongst the discreet neutrals. Dries is tactile and opulent. Louis Vuitton gets the top spot, its area is part of a dedicated three-storey fit-out complete with its own swivelling lift. Alaia, Saint Laurent and McQueen round out the offer.

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In the middle section there are the new gen giants – think Givenchy, Balenciaga, Tom Ford. And also the Brit brigade – Roksanda, Pilotto, Kane and Preen all representing. These are the brands adored by today’s luxury millennials, they’re seen as edgy and cool but unmistakably expensive. Look at those embellished sweatshirts and know that this is not your mother’s Givenchy. And the Dover Street Market factor? It’s there in those squishy Loewe pouffes and geometric handbags. And there in the Sacai hybrid outerwear. And most definitely there in that wall of Rick Owenses, not to mention the rails of J.W. Andersons and Simone Rochas. There’s not one dud piece in all that lot that I wouldn’t snap up tomorrow if I won the lottery.

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 Selfridges-designer-galleries-Rick-Owens
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Of course, should you just want something clean and classic, you’re not neglected. The opposite end of the floor has Jil Sander, MaxMara, a ton of Chloe, plus my secret fetish – Brunello Cucinelli. If Chanel and Rick Owens are for the rich kids, I suspect this is the moms’ playground.

It’s certainly the dream retail experience for the monied international customer, with a killer buy from the important brands. It’s presented beautifully with service to match (attentive but not pushy). And increasingly, the online inventory is starting to replicate the store offer. Yes, a few brands resist; there’s no way to buy Celine short of getting your butt into a bricks & mortar store. But others I guess know that having their product on a site like Selfridges.com ups brand awareness as well as giving a better idea of the riches that await you when you visit. For starters, there’s a full complement of Dries and a fair bit of Comme. Here’s my fantasy edit…

London Fashion Week SS15 highlights: Day 4

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Thomas-Tait-ss15-Georges Rousse

The answer to the question “why do we still need fashion shows?” was answered succinctly on Monday with Thomas Tait’s powerpacked, techno-soundtracked stomper of a show. Fashion shows need emotion, energy and feeling in order to express something these days, the clothes are only part of the story. And so Tait created tension and anticipation in his concrete box of a location, with walls painted in collaboration with artist Georges Rousse setting an intriguing scene. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: RALPH LAUREN, UGG, BURBERRY, RAHUL MISHRA, THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY, STYLE.COM, APPLE, SAMSUNG

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…


1. RALPH LAUREN’S POLO PUSH

I had no idea that there wasn’t already a Polo for women. Well, Ralph Lauren is addressing that this month with a mega launch for the brand. It’s weird, Abercrombie and the like have totally hijacked the young women’s Ralph market, but as their fortunes take a dive, this could be a good time for the Ralph Lauren reclaim. Go team Ralph!


2. UGG’S INFLUENCERS

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Credit where it’s due, Ugg’s ad campaigns are pretty stunning. Its latest ‘This is UGG’ campaign, featuring off-duty influencers-of-the-moment Langley Fox Hemingway and Hanneli Mustaparta, would definitely convince me to buy if I aspired to their lifestyles. Campaigns today are no longer about selling product, but forging an emotional connection to a brand. Love or hate it, Ugg does this really well.


3 BURBERRY BANKS ON FRAGRANCE AND BEAUTY

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Lots of hullabaloo this week with the launch of Burberry’s new fragrance, My Burberry. Burberry likes a multi-pronged story (and a digital one) with its launches so this one included several threads. It had supermodels (Kate ‘n’ Cara), customizable bottles (you can add your initials to the ribbon bow) and the obligatory obsession with British weather (perfumer Francis Kurkdjian’s scent evokes an English garden after autumnal rain showers). The scent itself is a very pleasant floral concoction with mainstream appeal to delight Burberry’s many fans. Which is good news because the bigger story here is Burberry’s beauty ambitions. “Our vision is to be a top ten player in luxury fragrance,” says Chief Operating Officer, John Smith.


4. RAHUL MISHRA’S SLOW FASHION MISSION

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Good to see an Indian designer winning the coveted International Woolmark Prize. Having collected his prize in February, Rahul Mishra’s capsule collection of merino wool dresses is now on sale in the UK exclusively at Harvey Nichols. His handworked pieces are a testament to his slow fashion principles. “I want to slow down the process of making a garment so we can employ more and more people,” he says.  “In a country of one billion people, I think of the millions of people who require jobs, they are really talented and how we can bring them to the forefront.”


5. THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY GOES PUNK

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It’s been interesting to watch the trajectory of The Cambridge Satchel Company. Everyone’s favourite kitchen table success story, it has chosen its collaborators well in an attempt to widen appeal beyond students and suburban mums. This week sees its latest capsule collection, created by artist-designers John Dove and Molly White whose legacies include designs for Mr Freedom, Fiorucci and all manner of 1970s pop culture icons. Known for their SIGNATURE/TRADEMARK 70s animal-print (originally a protest against fur), their graphic Cambridge satchels will go on sale from Friday at retailers worldwide and at Cambridgesatchel.com.


6. CH-CH-CHANGES AT STYLE.COM

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Following last week’s Vogue.com revamp, it turns out Style.com has also just had a facelift. In the fight for online eyeballs, it promises increased news coverage and opinion – a recognition that fashion is now as important a global entertainment phenomenon as music and film. And yay, Tommy Ton will be taking his zoom lens beyond Fashion Week to ‘unearth and spotlight new scenes and subcultures around the world’.


7) APPLE HIRES MARC NEWSON

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Major excitement at the news that Marc Newson has joined BFF Jony Ive on Apple’s design team. Cue much speculation about his exact role and possible involvement in the already-mythical iWatch. All eyes on Apple for Tuesday’s big reveal then…


8) SAMSUNG’S GALAXY NOTE 4 CAN’T COME SOON ENOUGH

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While everyone’s buttocks are clenched for Apple’s iWatch announcement next week, I care more about Samsung. Word is that the Galaxy Note 4 super-phone is due some time in October (all the deets HERE). For bloggers, the Galaxy Note 3 has everything – huge screen, long-lasting battery, plus the most excellent stylus pen (aka my favourite toy). If that can be bettered then I’m sold. Sorry Apple, it’s all about phablets from now on…

[Image credits: Style.com/Tommy Ton; Marc Newson and Jony Ive/Vanity Fair]

Le Kilt: A classic reimagined

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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I love it when designers start off with one product item before slowly expanding into other areas. It’s much easier to get your head around their aesthetic and it gives you a hook to latch onto too. Example: Le Kilt. Samantha McCoach grew up watching her grandmother make kilts and forever inspired, launched her own modern kilt line this year (it’s currently stocked at Dover Street Market). Continue reading

On Gap, M&S, and the fashion paradox of Dressing Normal

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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Well, isn’t Gap’s new ‘Dress Normal’ campaign interesting?

As we all know, this year’s buzzword ‘normcore’ is steeped in anony Gap-style dressing, so Gap has nodded to that in its Dress Normal strapline. But don’t expect 90s-tinged bland-chic. Gap’s imagery is far more elevated and beautiful, so we’re shown not normal people (thank God, I’m a bit over normal people), but Hollywood elite types in ‘normal’ situations to represent modern-day Gap.

My favourite is Angelica Huston (top) having a coffee in a gorgeously lit diner situation (as opposed to a normcore Starbucks). Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE; MAC X BROOKE SHIELDS; DIET COKE X ASOS

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. WHAT WOMEN WANT

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Get ready for another stealth-luxe handbag line, this one’s coming from WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie. The minimalist menswear accessory brand now has a women’s leather range, currently on sale exclusively at Barneys. “Our female fans have been egging us on to unleash this for a long time. There was definitely a pent-up demand for it,” co-founder Byron Peart told Style.com. Continue reading

Who is Vetements?

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

1 Vetements-aw14-disneyrollergirl

Right, I’m making it my mission to find out who’s behind the Paris-based label, Vetements. Apparently a collective of designers who have to be anonymous due to commitments at other brands (they’ve all served at Maison Martin Margiela while some have also worked at Balenciaga and Céline), it’s a label that dismisses the concept of ‘fashion’ and theme-y collections for timeless wardrobe pieces that are anything but basic. Continue reading

Mastered: Bloggers doing it for themselves

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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So I had a feeling 2014 was going to be a big year for blogging and I was right. Some of my blog buddies have achieved huge things this year, for starters, look how many fashion bloggers are writing books. Not e-books, but big printed things full of that weird stuff called paper. Susie Bubble is working on her second book (if you count Style Feed which she contributed to), while Sasha Wilkins/Liberty London Girl has just sent her convivial cookery book to print. Continue reading

DRG Style Index: Kenzo, Jigsaw and… Skechers?!

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Welcome to the DRG STYLE INDEX, a weekly ranking of brands that have caught my attention. On my style radar this week…

1. IT’S KENZO TIME

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I first got wind of Kenzo’s foray into watches six months ago at the Black Frame press day. Now we’re close to the launch of Kenzo timepieces, which are being produced under license but with creative direction under the watch (no pun intended) of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: BARRIE, KILGOUR, HARVEY NICHOLS, A.P.C, MULBERRY

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

On this week’s DRG STYLE INDEX, these are the brands that caught my attention…

1. BARRIE TO LAUNCH READY TO WEAR (AND A STORE IS IMMINENT TOO)

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The Made in Scotland ethos is gaining momentum with the launch of a new Barrie RTW collection next month. Designed by Chanel’s Odile Massuger using premium cashmere fibre, we’re promised twenty silhouettes merging clean lines with adventurous motifs and colours – I’m particularly intrigued by the description of handpainted porcelain buttons! Continue reading

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