Tag Archives: AW14
One of my highlights of Paris Fashion Week was the Lanvin AW14 re-see. On a huge scale, this is where you get to see the commercial workings of Fashion Week at play, where buyers view the pieces they’re really going to stock, and write their orders on the spot. The vast space (a 1920s former railway depot) was a hive of activity, it even had a pop-up café to keep the buyers and clerks fed and watered while crunching those numbers.
I was guided through both the catwalk collections and the commercial collections so I could see the pieces close up and learn what sells and what doesn’t. The theme for AW14 was extremism, experimentation and extravagance, shown on the runway with Edwardian-esque styling of romantic picture hats and elbow-hugging gloves. With a dark palette, it was useful to see the myriad fabrics and textures at close quarters; fake and real furs, loose salt-n-pepper tweeds and sheer gauzes designed to suggest movement and lightness.
A shaggy wool fringed coat from the runway collection had shaved sides while a ‘leather’ trench turned out to be fake leather “for better movement”. Fabric experimentation here is the key – think a sheer gauze shell top with wool and tinsel woven into it and feather and knitted wool transformed into a tactile mini shift dress. The colour-block fringing was one of my standouts, expertly placed on dresses in varying lengths to keep the eye travelling.
After being walked through the catwalk collection on one side of the room, we switched over to the commercial collection where I was surprised to discover that a pair of posh jersey track pants are a perennial best seller. This is the interesting part of re-sees, you get to look at a collection with commercial eyes and appreciate how a designer balances dreams and desires against what people really wear. In that sense, it’s kind of true what they say about ready-to-wear being more like couture while the commercial and pre-collections do the job of ready-to-wear. The experimental pieces may not surface much further than the rails in this showroom but they do the job of delivering the brand statement loud and clear. That said, Lanvin has the freedom to be risk-taking in its commercial offer too. “As an independent, we can produce things like fur without worrying if it will sell,” I was told. Less polarising were the twisted ribbed knits, especially one in deep magenta, a welcome splash of colour.
As with many RTW brands, bags and shoes are a big old deal for Lanvin so naturally there was a huge area dedicated to them (alongside those dreamy feathered hats and some impossibly elegant gloves). I made a beeline for the cutaway pumps and flat ankle boots, while the multi-way bag was flagged up as popular with the buyers. I suspect the theatrical hats will wend their way into a few order books too, we all had a go at trying them on. Extremism, experimentation and extravagance may well be the look for Lanvin AW14 but underscoring that is a cache of pragmatic, crowd-pleasing product that promises to move swiftly on the shop floor.
CLICK BELOW TO SHOP AW14 LANVIN
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. JEFF KOONS FOR H&M
So did you? Get your hands on the much-coveted Jeff Koons for H&M handbag? To celebrate the brand new H&M NYC flagship and the Jeff Koons retrospective at the Whitney, a one-off handbag adorned with Koons’ famous Balloon Dog was produced last week, sadly to the US market only. I wrote about it here. (And if you missed it, well you can always buy this signed bag for $1,500 on eBay… or, um, this empty carrier bag for $39. Yes, the world has indeed gone mad.)
2. EBAY TO STREAM SOTHEBY’S AUCTIONS
At last! Some credibility to eBay’s luxury auctions, in the guise of a new hook-up with Sotheby’s. This autumn, eBay will live stream most of Sotheby’s New York auctions, allowing online bidding from eBay’s customers, with an aim to extend the partnership worldwide. With rival auctioneers Christie’s upping its own reach (it regularly reports from its auctions on Instagram), this is another sign of high art and fashion opening up to the masses.
3. SACAI X VANS
Just in at Dover Street Market, this season-inappropriate collab between Vans and Sacai. I love the low-key styling of neutral-coloured suede on a low-top or hi-top skate shoe. The furry lining I like too, just maybe not quite yet…
4. CALVIN KLEIN JEANS X MYTHERESA
Clearly it’s not just me who’s feeling the waves of Calvin Klein nostalgia. Last week saw MyTheresa’s capsule line of CK Jeans classics land onsite, as modelled by Kate Moss’s wee half sister. You can shop my edit below…
Right, I’m making it my mission to find out who’s behind the Paris-based label, Vetements. Apparently a collective of designers who have to be anonymous due to commitments at other brands (they’ve all served at Maison Martin Margiela while some have also worked at Balenciaga and Céline), it’s a label that dismisses the concept of ‘fashion’ and theme-y collections for timeless wardrobe pieces that are anything but basic. Continue reading
The Chanel and Dior AW14 couture collections were so different from each other although they both referenced the past to inform the future. The other thing they had in common was youthful hair and makeup. Chanel’s wayward ‘eighties boy band’ hairpieces (above and below) stole my attention from the clothes, giving the outfits an energetic attitude alongside equally youth-centric Sharpie-pen eyeliner flicks. (Full disclosure: I had a major backcombing habit in my teens.) Continue reading
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, featuring the brands currently buzzing on on my radar…
1. LA GARCONNE DOES BRICKS AND MORTAR
Somehow this passed me by, but one of my favourite etailers has gone over to the B&M side. La Garconne, the purveyor of perfectly judged boyish womenswear has opened a physical store in TriBeCa, selling its covetable mix of Margiela, Acne Studios and The Row. Message to La Garconne: London needs you! Continue reading
What to do when Dior calls and asks if you’d like to interpret its fall 2014 collection Disneyrollergirl-stylee? First you grab your creative collaborator, (thank you photographer Emma Miranda Moore), then you descend on the Dior showroom, making a beeline for all those epic accessories – that knitted neck-warmer, those Mise En Dior tribal earrings, the moonscape scarf, bejewelled necklaces and the newest version of my favourite Grand Bal Plisse Soleil watch. Plus of course, a few select clothing choices to go with.
The fall 2014 collection is Dior’s equivalent to pre-fall but there are killer pieces amongst the commercial numbers. The silk leopard-spot coat is as couture-fabulous as you’d expect in its cut and print but its extravagant volume is even more striking when worn as casually as a dressing gown (subtext: ‘I woke up like this’). Ditto the silk slip dress with its integrated baby blue cardigan; the most relaxed evening dress you ever saw or the ultimate in decadent nightwear? You decide. And in yet another attempt to deconstruct Dior a little, we have Raf’s ultimate ode to his beloved youth culture, the MA1 as a 3-way coat that unzips at the waist to become a jacket and skirt of New Look-esque proportions. Be assured, this is not your mother’s Dior…
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape (above), £230, Dior
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape, £230; Dior Vernis nail lacquer in Palais Royal, £18.50; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil 36mm watch in stainless steel, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, £16,000; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Silk jumpsuit, £3,700; Diorigin bracelet in metal with gold finish adorned with smoky crystals and orange pony, from £2,000; Dior Addict FluidStick in Pandore, £26, all Dior
Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, Dior
Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; both Dior
Leather Perfecto jacket, £4,700; Lady Dior panther printed pony effect calfskin bag, £3,400; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Diorigin astrakhan cuff, £2,250; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790, Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool knit collar, £270; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Top image: Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; silk dress, from £2,000; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
All fall 2014 items available from DIOR, 31 Sloane Street, SW1 – Dior.com – 0207 172 0172; Beauty stockists: Dior.com – 0207 216 0216
*THIS SHOOT WAS PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DIOR*
I spent last week doing the AW14 press day rounds and my early highlights include all the art-fashion collections emerging. Each X Other is an interesting collective of artists, musicians, designers and other creatives who translate their work into something wearable, beautiful and often poetic, the idea being that art is always around you. For AW14, they have teamed up with New York artist Maripol to produce these simple pieces printed with her recognisable Polaroids and club flyers…
Aaand here we go in phase one of the Ghesquiere-ification of Vuitton! Charlotte Gainsbourg wore Louis Vuitton AW14 to the the Nymphomaniac: Volume 1 screening in New York last night. Continue reading
Olympia Le Tan is famous for her book clutches which have been toted by most of young Hollywood and highly coveted by everyone else. She’s less known for her milk carton bag, an equally whimsical handmade creation from a few seasons ago, that slings across the shoulder on a rope cord (below). Continue reading