art

On my radar: Robert Rauschenberg’s chinos



robert Rauschenberg chinos and sweatshirt Richard avedon 1960

Are we ready for a chino revival? For some, like me, chinos (or khakis) never went away, but this autumn there are rumblings of a re-emergence.

How so?

Well, the main driver for me is the forthcoming Robert Rauschenberg Tate Modern exhibition, which will give rise to all manner of musings on the New York artist’s classic-casual style. Chinos, a sweatshirt or a white shirt were the Rauschenberg wardrobe staples, as described by Simon Chilvers in The Guardian. So far, so normcore. I’ve always loved this unisex, utilitarian look and it serves me well. (Urban Outfitters is swimming in over-dyed Fruit of the Loom sweatshirts right now, should you want to stock up.)
Robert Rauscenberg New Balance chinos sweatshirt

Meanwhile, Lemaire’s chinos for women are a highlight of the autumn drop, with their full-legged proportions and high waist, teamed with a contrasting belt. For a more gamine look, switch the shirting for a fine gauge black merino turtleneck with super skinny or short sleeves (I’ve got this one from & Other Stories), and wear with loafers and cream socks.

Lemaire chinos aw16

I like my chinos baggy. Skinny, low-waisted chinos are a no-no for me, and they should be in a nice, heavyweight fabric, none of this skimpy, stretchy rubbish. On the high street, there’s not much about, but Madewell’s are workable (if a little bit slim). And these J. Crews have lots of potential – I rather like them in pink
J. Crew chinos for women

If you need any more encouragement, have a read of Racked’s history lesson here.Then tell me that you’re not ready to jump head first into your nearest thrift bin to seek out some original 1940s khakis…

NOW CLICK TO SHOP THE POST BELOW…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: top – Richard Avedon; catwalk – Vogue Runway; bottom – J.Crew
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

Save

Save



Workshop visit: At Chanel, it’s all wheat, no chaff



Chanel L'Epi brooch fine jewellery Les Bles de Chanel

When did wheat get such a bad rap? What was once revered for giving us our daily bread is now feared for making us fat, tired and irritable. Time for a rebranding campaign perhaps, but who would have expected the redeemer to be…Chanel?

In fact, the notion isn’t quite as eccentric as it seems if you know the history of Chanel. The young Gabrielle Chanel had humble beginnings, spending her childhood in the rural French region of Auvergne, known for its wheat fields. As a young woman she became friends with Salvador Dali, who once gifted her a painting of wheat, a gesture that symbolised success, growth and prosperity. From there on, wheat became one of the signature house codes, woven, embroidered and knitted into many a collection. Fast-forward to 2016 and the humble ear of wheat is the focus of some of the most extravagant Chanel pieces you can buy – from the ‘Les Blés de Chanel’ high jewellery collection. (more…)



Hand drawn



Jigsaw White Poplin Wrap Shirt

Do go and see the Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition at Tate Modern if you can. As well as the flower paintings, New Mexico landscapes and some lovely early synesthesia-inspired abstracts, there’s a room of Alfred Stieglitz photographs of O’Keeffe.

The photos of her hands are pretty well known and for good reason. (more…)



Petit Déjeuner X Dior: The Awakening



For the third in my Petit Déjeuner film series, we’re celebrating the reawakening of the London Dior flagship store. Petit Déjeuner is all about new beginnings and reinvention, and after four years of renovation, we’re finally seeing the reawakening of this sleeping beauty.

What’s the role of a flagship store these days? The flagship (or ‘Maison’ as many like to call theirs) is more important than ever, in the era of bricks vs clicks. If the phone, app, website or e-commerce portal is the convenience store, then the Maison is the beautiful, leisurely experience that to me, is real luxury. As Dior’s Sidney Toledano says, “The real deal is time. The young generation, whether they are 15, 18, 20, they want everything fast. But maturity is giving meaning to time. Time is dreaming. We give the ability to the people to have a moment of dreaming.”

So enter the vast, four-level listed building (actually two buildings now co-joined) and you’re in a grand cathedral to all things chic and beautiful. From the jasmine-trellised conservatory (that had to stay due to listed building status), to the stately marble staircase, to the neo-Louis XV1 furniture (a nod to the elegant Parisian house codes), it’s like entering the most decadent, life size dollshouse. And fittingly, there’s an exclusive home collection to add to the Dior universe. Think crystal glassware, hand embroidered linens and a range of teas inspired by Dior fragrances.

On the subject of fragrance, the perfume department is decorated by the most wonderful porcelain sculpture wall by Beth Katleman. Yes, you will want to linger here for a while. And wait, did I mention the three private dressing room suites, decorated with Mats Gustafson and Christian Bérard illustrations?
Dior Bond Street - photo by by Emma Miranda Moore for Disneyrollergirl
Dior accessories Disneyrollergirl

Art was one of Christian Dior’s great passions so it’s fitting that this ‘house’ is filled with unique contemporary pieces. The ornate staircase is incredible, from the globular silver ‘Distant Cousin’ sculpture by Tony Cragg alongside it, to the curlicued railings, to the animated ‘mural’ by Oyoram, an ever-changing digital screen that brings life and energy to the space. Marc Quinn continues the colour explosion with his limited edition Lady Dior bags and small leather accessories drenched in a vibrant floral print.

And to balance the bursts of colour, of course there are several shades of signature Dior grey, another house code, here reinvented in silver leafed leather, bedazzling chrome and reflective surfaces. In this shining temple, there are mirrors wherever you look.

It’s all very mesmerising and creates the perfect backdrop for our film about transformation, identity and possibility. Come in, look around, try something on, dare to dream a little. Who do you want to be today?

Watch the film here

Dior Bond Street by Emma Miranda Moore for Disneyrollergirl
Dior Bond Street by Emma Miranda Moore for Disneyrollergirl Petit Dejeuner

FILM CREDITS
Concept: Navaz Batliwalla and Emma Miranda Moore
Film and photography: Emma Miranda Moore
Styling: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl.net
Hair and make-up: Sjaniël at Novel Beings
Model: Antonia Haswell at Linden Staub
Music by Millie Cole

First outfit:
Black top from Cassie Mercantile; other items from Contemporary Wardrobe
All other items from Dior.

STILLS CREDITS
As above. All clothes and accessories, Dior
Location: Dior, 160-162 New Bond Street, London W1
Thanks to Rebecca Lesley, Emmet Holmes-Boyes, Callie Adams at Dior

Watch part 2 of Petit Déjeuner here

#DRGPetitDejeuner

Save

Save

Save

Save