Tag Archives: accessories
One of my highlights of Paris Fashion Week was the Lanvin AW14 re-see. On a huge scale, this is where you get to see the commercial workings of Fashion Week at play, where buyers view the pieces they’re really going to stock, and write their orders on the spot. The vast space (a 1920s former railway depot) was a hive of activity, it even had a pop-up café to keep the buyers and clerks fed and watered while crunching those numbers.
I was guided through both the catwalk collections and the commercial collections so I could see the pieces close up and learn what sells and what doesn’t. The theme for AW14 was extremism, experimentation and extravagance, shown on the runway with Edwardian-esque styling of romantic picture hats and elbow-hugging gloves. With a dark palette, it was useful to see the myriad fabrics and textures at close quarters; fake and real furs, loose salt-n-pepper tweeds and sheer gauzes designed to suggest movement and lightness.
A shaggy wool fringed coat from the runway collection had shaved sides while a ‘leather’ trench turned out to be fake leather “for better movement”. Fabric experimentation here is the key – think a sheer gauze shell top with wool and tinsel woven into it and feather and knitted wool transformed into a tactile mini shift dress. The colour-block fringing was one of my standouts, expertly placed on dresses in varying lengths to keep the eye travelling.
After being walked through the catwalk collection on one side of the room, we switched over to the commercial collection where I was surprised to discover that a pair of posh jersey track pants are a perennial best seller. This is the interesting part of re-sees, you get to look at a collection with commercial eyes and appreciate how a designer balances dreams and desires against what people really wear. In that sense, it’s kind of true what they say about ready-to-wear being more like couture while the commercial and pre-collections do the job of ready-to-wear. The experimental pieces may not surface much further than the rails in this showroom but they do the job of delivering the brand statement loud and clear. That said, Lanvin has the freedom to be risk-taking in its commercial offer too. “As an independent, we can produce things like fur without worrying if it will sell,” I was told. Less polarising were the twisted ribbed knits, especially one in deep magenta, a welcome splash of colour.
As with many RTW brands, bags and shoes are a big old deal for Lanvin so naturally there was a huge area dedicated to them (alongside those dreamy feathered hats and some impossibly elegant gloves). I made a beeline for the cutaway pumps and flat ankle boots, while the multi-way bag was flagged up as popular with the buyers. I suspect the theatrical hats will wend their way into a few order books too, we all had a go at trying them on. Extremism, experimentation and extravagance may well be the look for Lanvin AW14 but underscoring that is a cache of pragmatic, crowd-pleasing product that promises to move swiftly on the shop floor.
CLICK BELOW TO SHOP AW14 LANVIN
“Women are the future of watches, there’s huge potential in women’s watches that is only half exploited today.” So said Jean-Claude Biver, head of LVMH’s watch unit earlier this year. He must be rubbing his hands this month as the summer influx of middle-Eastern customers arrive to shop up a storm at our luxury department stores.
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, featuring the brands currently buzzing on on my radar…
1. LA GARCONNE DOES BRICKS AND MORTAR
Somehow this passed me by, but one of my favourite etailers has gone over to the B&M side. La Garconne, the purveyor of perfectly judged boyish womenswear has opened a physical store in TriBeCa, selling its covetable mix of Margiela, Acne Studios and The Row. Message to La Garconne: London needs you! Continue reading
Bam! Nothing for ages, then all the sales start at once! Net-a-Porter, Matchesfashion, Liberty, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols all started their sales last week. I’ll be cherry picking my way through but to start with, here’s a quick pick of my current highlights. There’s a ton of Miu Miu and Isabel Marant on sale at Net-a-Porter but be warned, those sizes will go fast (there’s currently only one of these Miu Miu skirts left).
If you’re not over Rockstuds, Valentino’s leopard-spot flats are a bit different and now selling at 30% off at Matchesfashion. That Marc Jacobs ‘Coke-ribbon’ sweatshirt? It’s still kicking around and is 40% off at Net-a-Porter – yours for £720 (but there’s only one size left). And if you’re a lover of McQueen handbags, this red skull-padlock beauty can be yours for £470.01 at Liberty with 30% off. Shop the edit below…
[Main image: Nigel Shafran/Vogue]
What to do when Dior calls and asks if you’d like to interpret its fall 2014 collection Disneyrollergirl-stylee? First you grab your creative collaborator, (thank you photographer Emma Miranda Moore), then you descend on the Dior showroom, making a beeline for all those epic accessories – that knitted neck-warmer, those Mise En Dior tribal earrings, the moonscape scarf, bejewelled necklaces and the newest version of my favourite Grand Bal Plisse Soleil watch. Plus of course, a few select clothing choices to go with.
The fall 2014 collection is Dior’s equivalent to pre-fall but there are killer pieces amongst the commercial numbers. The silk leopard-spot coat is as couture-fabulous as you’d expect in its cut and print but its extravagant volume is even more striking when worn as casually as a dressing gown (subtext: ‘I woke up like this’). Ditto the silk slip dress with its integrated baby blue cardigan; the most relaxed evening dress you ever saw or the ultimate in decadent nightwear? You decide. And in yet another attempt to deconstruct Dior a little, we have Raf’s ultimate ode to his beloved youth culture, the MA1 as a 3-way coat that unzips at the waist to become a jacket and skirt of New Look-esque proportions. Be assured, this is not your mother’s Dior…
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape (above), £230, Dior
Silk twill scarf with orchid moonscape, £230; Dior Vernis nail lacquer in Palais Royal, £18.50; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil 36mm watch in stainless steel, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, £16,000; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Silk jumpsuit, £3,700; Diorigin bracelet in metal with gold finish adorned with smoky crystals and orange pony, from £2,000; Dior Addict FluidStick in Pandore, £26, all Dior
Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, Dior
Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; both Dior
Leather Perfecto jacket, £4,700; Lady Dior panther printed pony effect calfskin bag, £3,400; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool and silk sleeveless dress, £2,700; Diorigin astrakhan cuff, £2,250; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290; fragrance, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette, £55 (for 50ml), all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790, Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Wool and silk short sweater, £1,150; black wool pants £790; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones, £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Khaki and orange nylon coat, £4,000; wool knit collar, £270; Mise En Dior tribal earring with red resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
Top image: Leopard-print silk coat, £2,900; silk dress, from £2,000; Diorigin necklace with blue and grey crystal stones (worn as a bracelet), £1,800; Mise En Dior tribal earring with green resin pearls and palladium finish, £290, all Dior
All fall 2014 items available from DIOR, 31 Sloane Street, SW1 – Dior.com – 0207 172 0172; Beauty stockists: Dior.com – 0207 216 0216
*THIS SHOOT WAS PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DIOR*
When it comes to immersive, experiential retail, you can’t really beat Harrods and its epic store takeovers. Chanel and Dior have had their turn and this month saw the unveiling of Pradasphere, a fusion of shop windows (40 in total), pop-up shop, cafe and exhibition.
The exhibition on the fourth floor is the big draw. It starts with glass cabinets telling the story of the beginnings of the 101-year-old brand. Originally purveyors of leathergoods, we’re shown vitrines of ancient paper packaging, handbag frames and luxurious vanity sets for the travelling classes. All give an air of revered Milanese shopkeeper to the proceedings, nicely bringing us back to retail. Continue reading
Here’s an interesting brand jumping on the 3d-printing personalisation trend. These name bracelets are made to order from Zazzy, a Dutch jewellery brand that uses precious and semi-precious metals for its youthful, casual jewellery. Continue reading
Question: what do sexy-shoe designers do when footwear fashions shift from £600 super-stilettos to £100 trainers? Well I guess they switch focus to bags. Is this the reason for Charlotte Olympia’s forthcoming business-friendly line? The new line of work-appropriate leather handbags launches for AW14, focusing on structured top handles, totes and clutch bags. (I love this ruby red ‘Bogart’ top handle, above.)
But shoes aren’t totally neglected. There’s an accompanying ‘Nine To Five’ line of lower-heeled pumps that nod to Dellal-style whimsy (think leopard print and peekaboo details). Served up in a briefcase-style box, complete with matching stockings, look out for them in June on Charlotteolympia.com and Net-a-Porter.com.