On Helmut, Jil, Joseph, Juergen, Corrine, Kirsten and Stella








As Jen at Mahalo fashion bemoans, every drop of interest has been squeezed out of the ’70s so what’s next on the retro rehash front? I hate to say it but the fact cannot be ignored, it’s time for the nineties revival proper. It’s had a couple of false starts, the latest being nu-rave, but I think we can start looking at the 90s revival from a grown-up point of view. As Fashionista reports that 1990s finest alterna-models Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant are rumoured to be the faces of Marc Jacobs’ fall campaign, I’m thinking the following will start looking fresh now:

Skinny black suit trousers and pointy black ankle boots -very Helmut Lang/Jil Sander, very Alison Mosshart

Spiky kitten heels – Remember when Dolce & Gabbana did these? I can totally see Vicky Beckham working a kitten heel and sheath dress combo

Non-trashy silver: Who can forget Jean Colonna’s silver jeans, silver leather jackets, silver-sprayed Cons?

McQueen’s ‘ugly’ aesthetic – think edgy tailoring, angry walks, intricate details, elaborate shows

Tom Ford for Gucci’s smoky eye and liquid jersey dresses with punky patent boots (wow, was that really 10 years ago?)

Isaac Mizrahi’s AW04 ballskirt and tee combo – legendary!

Joseph – when did it all go wrong with Joseph? I used to lust after those big black slouchy knits like a junior fashionista possessed, not to mention the boyish trouser suits, luxe hoodies and flat-front trousers with trademark stripe up the side

Patrick Cox loafers – I’m still regretting that I could never afford the gold ones. With news that Patrick Cox has been bought by Eddie Davenport, may I suggest they revive these pretty sharpish?

Camel: AW 94/95 = Camel suits at Calvin Klein (complete with chignons and 60s eyeliner), camel Crombie-style coats at Helmut Lang, camel dresses at MaxMara and Ann Demeulemeester (with aforementioned black ankleboots)

1990s models – Supermodels aside, who doesn’t miss the golden greats: Emma Balfour, Bridget Hall, Lorraine Pascale, Kiara, Veronica Webb, Kirsty Hume, Cecelia Chancellor …

1990s photographers: Ellen von Unwerth, David Sims, Juergen Teller, Corinne Day

CK Jeans: That iconic ad is imprinted on my brain!

Agnes B garconne look – admittedly I never stopped rocking this look but I reckon it’s time for it to resurface. Agnes B has been under-the-radar for most of this decade so let’s hear it for the stripy tee, Black picot-edge cardi and beatnik sunnies. PS, old Agnes is opening up shop in Spitalfields Market soon too.

Pics:
CK One
CK One
Emma Balfour in iD
Juergen Teller for Katharine Hamnett Denim
iD cover with Lorraine Pascale
Milla Jovovich wears Alberto Biani in iD photographed by Bob Richardson
Elle

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16 Responses to On Helmut, Jil, Joseph, Juergen, Corrine, Kirsten and Stella

  1. pretty face says:

    I think the chicness of Agnes B is one of the main reasons I love the name Agnes so much.

    I don’t think I’m particularly keen on a 90s shoe revival, but if they stick to suits I’ll be OK.

  2. WendyB says:

    I had a nice pair of Patrick Cox loafers in black and white. I still have a great pair of striped wedges by him.

  3. Sister Wolf says:

    You are a genius.

  4. susie_bubble says:

    A list that I suspect could be spot on….

  5. laia. says:

    i love the 90’s always and forever.

  6. Lektrogirl says:

    JOSEPH!! when I first moved to London in 1995, I worked at Joseph at Harvey Nichols and spent the evenings drinking at Riki Tiks and The Coach And Horses on Greek Street.

    I have been feeling that vibe all ‘summer’ longing for that look again.

  7. enc says:

    I loved all that stuff the first time around, so it’d be fine with me if it came back again. Thanks for posting those images. It was nice to see them again.

  8. Make Do & Mend says:

    Firstly completely spot on. Secondly have been working Joseph and Agnes B now for last few months – so had been keeping them happily to myself!

    Joseph has some great pieces again and Jigsaw (though I’m loathed to share) seem to be either by design or complete chance producing great little shoes as you described.

    there is much in the minimalist/sharp dressing to heart – much of which still remains. The nu-rave thing wasn’t really representative.
    BEST BLOG to date – versus the rest!! Brilliant.

  9. Make Do & Mend says:

    Firstly completely spot on. Secondly have been working Joseph and Agnes B now for last few months – so had been keeping them happily to myself!

    Joseph has some great pieces again and Jigsaw (though I’m loathed to share) seem to be either by design or complete chance producing great little shoes as you described.

    there is much in the minimalist/sharp dressing to heart – much of which still remains. The nu-rave thing wasn’t really representative.
    BEST BLOG to date – versus the rest!! Brilliant.

  10. Make Do & Mend says:

    Firstly completely spot on. Secondly have been working Joseph and Agnes B now for last few months – so had been keeping them happily to myself!

    Joseph has some great pieces again and Jigsaw (though I’m loathed to share) seem to be either by design or complete chance producing great little shoes as you described.

    there is much in the minimalist/sharp dressing to heart – much of which still remains. The nu-rave thing wasn’t really representative.
    BEST BLOG to date – versus the rest!! Brilliant.

  11. Make Do & Mend says:

    Firstly completely spot on. Secondly have been working Joseph and Agnes B now for last few months – so had been keeping them happily to myself!

    Joseph has some great pieces again and Jigsaw (though I’m loathed to share) seem to be either by design or complete chance producing great little shoes as you described.

    there is much in the minimalist/sharp dressing to heart – much of which still remains. The nu-rave thing wasn’t really representative.
    BEST BLOG to date – versus the rest!! Brilliant.

  12. indigo16 says:

    Great ideas and they would also cross the age barrier well.
    You have stirred up memories with the Joseph list. What amazing clothes they did, I loved them and found they were well worth saving up for. It was also a shop full of inspiration. I can clearly remember buying wonderful flowered Kenzo leggings. So yes what has happened indeed.

  13. Pamcasso says:

    I really feel like grunge is coming back, and has been for the last year or two. I was certainly not very aware of fashion in the 90s, I was between 6-16 during the decade, but I relish the return of minimalism and other 90s trends:)

  14. hebden says:

    The big question, what DID happen to Joseph? Thankfully I have a drawer full of over-sized sweaters to remind me of the good old days…oh, and some of those Kenzo floral pieces that indigo16 mentions.

  15. Jen (MahaloFashion) says:

    I think the 90s came back a bit with the neon revival but not in full force. All in good time;)

  16. Chelsa says:

    Well said.

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