18 January, 2012

Guest post: How to be a Bruce Weber beauty by Kay Montano

A few weeks ago when make-up marvel Kay Montano launched her blog, we came up with a fun idea of doing a blog post swap. So I have written a post for her about my ‘beauty icons’ and most used products and she has returned the favour with this post on her favourite Bruce Weber shoots she has worked on (she has been doing make-up for him on and off since she was 17), plus the hero products she uses to achieve Weber’s signature natural, outdoorsy look.

KAY MONTANO: “Here are my favourite Bruce images that I’ve worked on.. there are so many favourites with him as I’ve been working with him sporadically since I was 17. The typical ‘Bruce Weber make-up’ is of course, natural and untouched by any appearance of product. However, making someone who is white/blemished/dark-circled look like someone who has never partied, gets lots of sleep, swims, surfs, then chills out on the beach, generally living in a perpetual state of love is not simple make-up. In fact this is the most difficult make-up to achieve, especially when Bruce says “I want to see his/her skin”.

So make-up with Bruce usually goes like this: If they come ‘ready for Weberworld’ and look tanned, perfect and healthy then it’s absolutely nothing but brushing eyebrows up with a little shea butter (like me, he loves them bushy), all over sunscreen and body moisturiser. Otherwise it’s highly ‘prepped-until-it-glows’ skin with rosy sheer blush and a subtle sweep of fine (and waterproof as they often end up in the sea!) mascara that is combed through so that he doesn’t notice.

To achieve a warmer complexion, I use a thin veil of foundation (like MyMix or Chanel Vitalumiere) in a colour one shade darker than the subject’s skin and mix it in with a clear factor 20 moisturiser to make it sheer. I like to use cream blush like Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Pink Truffle as it is more undetectable than powder blush under the scrutiny of Bruce’s ‘eagle eyes’. Then, using a large fluffy brush (tilted downwards to make the colour hit the face like sun rays), I subtly brush Nars Laguna onto temples, nose, cheeks, ears and anywhere else that shows. Lastly, clear, shea butter-based lip balm like Nude Lip Balm or Jurlique Love Balm. If I’m lucky and they have a tan, I’ll use a moisturiser with a sunscreen all over their bodies.”

“Nine D’Orso for Bottega Veneta Fragrance shot in Miami Florida, the incredible Orlando did the hair. Nine was a dream”

“Ralph Lauren Romance Fragrance campaign. I worked with Ralph Lauren and Bruce for may years when I lived in NY, it became a real ‘working family'”

“Tatler – the first time I ever worked with Bruce – assisting the great Linda Cantello. Left is Gavin Rossdale of Bush, middle Tom Conran, we were all regulars at the infamous 80’s club Crazy Larry’s in Chelsea”