Just arrived at Dr Martens… this new collection by Agyness Deyn. This time, her inspiration was Harajuku, hence the chunky naive sandals, Minnie Mouse bows and loveheart motifs. I’m glad to see that Dr Martens has hit its stride in recent seasons, aligning itself with the modern heritage movement and successfully catering to old and new customers (the stores in Westfield Stratford and Carnaby Street are pitch perfect). Continue reading
It’s always weird when you see big trends emerging seemingly from nowhere. Part of it is wishing things into existence. I’ll always try to make huge fluffy mohair jumpers and mannish coats a ‘thing’ if it means people will make more of them and keep me well-stocked. In the last four days I’ve definitely seen my fair share of fluffy knits and gigantic coats, plus lots of shiny PVC/patent leather, flared skirts, fur, geometric layering and posh camo patterns. Continue reading
Today I truly experienced the luxury and convenience of a concierge service. I’ve been working with Amex to experience all they have to offer this Fashion Week, which in reality means I’ve had cars booked to ferry me from show to show, my on-the-go catering needs seen to, plus all manner of other requests – small and large – dealt with. Amex asked me what my ‘pain points’ were during Fashion Week and I said transport issues, wi-fi issues and just general juggling of everything. Continue reading
…Or maybe that’s just me. I certainly love Raf Simons’ passionate and considered approach to everything he does. Example: his latest collaboration with Fred Perry. Launching on 22nd Feb in all Fred Perry Laurel Wreath collection stores and online, it’s an ode to collage, juxtaposing “very different materials, prints and colours, therefore giving the wearer a possibility to combine the garments in different ways,” says Simons. Continue reading
Well who’d have thunk it? Six years ago today, I started a fashion blog. This very one, in fact, albeit on a Blogspot platform with a slightly clunky white-text-on-black-background layout. If you scroll back far enough, you can see my early posts; embarrassing though they are, I’ve not deleted them as it’s good to remember the journey.
My six year anniversary coincides with a pithy New York Times T Magazine story by Suzy Menkes lamenting the blog mob and the changes in fashion media and critiquing. Do read it, it’s certainly thought provoking. Alas, Menkes does come across as slightly jaded in her disapproval. Flagging up the common practice of ‘bloggers’ (read: the Fashion Week style blogger elite) who get photographed in next season’s looks, often gifted by designers in exchange for coverage, she reminds us that real reporters don’t play the gifting game (or ‘bribery’ as she puts it). It’s a funny one I admit. On the one hand, why not help give young designers exposure by wearing their clothes, if it will give them a leg-up and boost your visual presence as well? On the other hand, when the pre- and post-show peacocking starts to get more attention than the shows themselves, then that clearly signals a change in how things are working. Is it dumbing down though? or is it just an evolution in how fashion is seen and consumed now?
Six years ago, no-one even considered any of this stuff. As a phenomenon, it simply didn’t exist yet. Instagram didn’t exist, Vine didn’t exist, Twitter was in its infancy and Anna Dello Russo was just another jobbing fashion editor. How would fashion have weathered the recessions were it not for fashion blogs, Fashion Week street style and the powerful role they played in opening up the fashion industry to the masses? More pertinent still; where will fashion, blogging and the street style strutters be in another six years time? I guess that’s for us to witness, while documenting the process…
Thanks for the last six years of support!
Image: Stefania Yarhi/Textstyles – NYT
Leather dungarees: yay or nay? These are from Whistles, I’ve seen them in the flesh and they look really, really good. The cut is superb, the leather is ultra-soft (that’s the key) and the detailing is minimal. I think the crucial bit is the length of the rise and the slightly loose fit around the bum and thigh. I can’t say I’m looking forward to the cheaper quality imitations but if you manage to get these and look as effortless as this in them, kudos to you!
How can you not love these all-singing-all-dancing SS13 shoes from Terry De Havilland? The Margaux, Terry’s original signature wedge, celebrates its 40th birthday this year. That’s got to be worth throwing a party for…
Last Wednesday saw the unveiling of Dover Street Market’s seasonal Tachiagari, when the new collections and installations go in and the bloggers are let loose around the store with their dSLRs. Most noticable to me was the Brit invasion. It really is a BFC-fest in here – in a good way of course. Continue reading
“Louis Vuitton has become too common!” LVMH’s Bernard Arnault didn’t quite say last week. But the sentiment was there. Speaking at LVMH’s annual results presentation, he revealed that Louis Vuitton is scaling back on global expansion and focusing more on its high end products and superior customer service to avoid cheapening the brand.
This is a trend, not just at Louis Vuitton, but other luxury houses, who have stripped away the obvious logos and boosted product that shows off house ‘codes’. Dior recently reignited its ‘bar’ jacket and ‘comma’ heels, Gucci, the horsebit loafer (which is 60 years old this year), Chanel flagged up its pearls and Saint Laurent, its tie-neck blouses and iconic tuxedos. At Vuitton, the overexposed monogram has been sidelined for SS13 by the Damier check.
At Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall 13 preview on Thursday, my main highlight was the collection of Noe bags, a heritage Vuitton bag refreshed in new colours and sizes. Originally a carrying case for champagne bottles (what else?), the design celebrates its 80th anniversary this year.
My other highlight was the Icons collection, a capsule collection that updates pieces from the archive. I love this sheepskin balmacaan, a collarless coat that can be worn reversed with the leather on the outside. Delicious, no?