This summer, I noticed a trend emerging that I couldn’t wait to hit the high street. All the skater boys were wearing too-short jeans, an inch or so above their battered Vans and it’s a look I’ve always loved.
The skinny jeans obsession has peaked so we’re after something new. and as it coincides with Normcore, I’m just going to say it – welcome back Levi’s 501, I’ve missed you.
How I’d like to wear too-short 501s? Exactly like this. If your 501s aren’t this length when you buy them, you can get them altered at the Levi’s store, fast and free (I think mine were done in a day). And the walkable heels showing just a bit of skin are a refreshing change from Tribute-style ankle-breakers (RIP).
[Main pic: Tommy ton/Style.com]
The answer to the question “why do we still need fashion shows?” was answered succinctly on Monday with Thomas Tait’s powerpacked, techno-soundtracked stomper of a show. Fashion shows need emotion, energy and feeling in order to express something these days, the clothes are only part of the story. And so Tait created tension and anticipation in his concrete box of a location, with walls painted in collaboration with artist Georges Rousse setting an intriguing scene.
When the models came out, depending on where you sat, they appeared to be marching out of the painted walls, their graphic, strategically-slashed dresses matching the artwork. I was sat directly in front of a speaker, so the whole experience was amplified to the power of ten. It transported me back to those early London McQueen shows – raw, powerful and heart-pounding. It definitely made the show feel much more of an experience and was the most exciting show of the week for me. (A special shout out goes to the shoes, equally aggressive with their upturned spike heels.)
Erdem‘s show was another evocative production, a dark, tropical setting with a sinister hint of Lord of The Flies. I loved the styling of ornate gowns paired with flat black brogues. After the show I was interviewed by Daisy Lowe for her segment of the BBC Iplayer fashion week documentary which airs tomorrow. I grabbed a couple of shots of her interviewing Vogue’s Alexandra Shulman outside the venue, then directing the street-style paps, telling them where to stand to get her best angle!
Burberry’s gone kawaii! I sensed something was up by the new-style invitation (colourful graphics rather than tasteful cream card) and the printed plastic roof. There was a definite nod to the new youth consumer at Burberry Prorsum, with Vivienne Westwood-ish hourglass denim, cropped furry jackets and trainers on the runway. It was a world away from luxe, heritage Burberry, right down to the sky blue nail polish (which as usual, you can buy now for a limited time. Click HERE). Although I found a few of the pieces a little overdone, the finale of printed trenches was colourful and playful. Burberry also partnered with Youtube this season to give online show viewers additional content. Click on the icon in the top left corner of the video below to customise your view.
Pitstop at The Delaunay… a good (and rather beautiful) hideaway between shows
Over at Somerset House I managed to steal a half hour to look at the NEWGEN designers on the stands, sponsored by Topshop. It’s always great to see Claire Barrow’s hand illustrated pieces up close. I love her uncompromising vision and how she manages to make her work both personal yet commercial. I also got a closer look at Ashley Williams’ teen-centric collection, having seen her show the day before. She’s collaborating with Coca-Cola for SS15 with some amazing jewellery and this knit top (which says Coke in Chinese)…
I took the evening off from show-going and blogging to indulge in a two-hours-plus film screening of Malcolm McLaren: The Anarchist Generation. It’s long but it’s full of gems, especially McLaren himself telling stories of his life (how true they are, who knows…) plus some amazing old footage of early Westwood shows. I think we’re ready to see shows like this and this again…
If there was any doubt that phones are now fashion accessories, last week rammed that thought home. With Apple‘s major unveiling during New York Fashion Week with key fashion press in the front row and Natalie Massenet representing (will she be selling the new Apple devices on Net-a-Porter?), the fashionisation of our everyday tech gear is indisputable.
OK the big fuss was all around the smart Watch but the general consensus among the fashion contingent is it ain’t all that (yet). Continue reading
London designers are known for their youthful experimentation but they’ve becoming equally adept at delivering polished wearability. Day two’s highlights included Lucas Nascimento’s sheer, precision-cut layers (above and below), Joseph’s serene sportswear and Whistles’ luxe leather separates.
Even J.W Anderson surprised with extreme commerciality on his catwalk (combined with clever creativity of course), giving us that spring perennial ‘nautical chic’ his way, involving strategic cut-outs and rope details all accessorised with fetishy floppy leather hats. Continue reading
London Fashion Week kicked off with two buzzy new names. Faustine Steinmetz showed as part of New Gen with her first presentation, a clever exploration of couture and branding, set in the suitably arty ICA.
I’m so impressed by this young designer, whose obsession for hands-on labour and figuring things out results in mind boggling textile experiments. On display were denim-look jackets of polyester styled out like Shibori (“It’s not Shibori at all! I actually handpainted it, I just like that look,” Steinmetz told me), and a jeans-n-jacket combo made from unravelled layers of upcycled denim creating a tufty fringe effect. Continue reading
Here’s the latest ‘Ask Alison’ post from retail expert and DRG contributor, ALISON BISHOP who unpacks her physical-meets-digital findings so far from the SS15 fashion show season…
The fashion show is dead. Long live the interactive, digital brand experience now taking place during New York and London fashion weeks, where consumers, influencers and their collective social media clout are the preferred global audience. Continue reading
Shinola klaxon! Yummy new Shinola watches have just landed at Net-a-Porter. The Detroit-based brand is getting a lot of attention at the mo for its leather goods, paper goods, watches and own-brand cola (called Shinola Cola obvs).
I like the classic understatement of these. They’re just masculine enough, without looking overly butch. I like the size too. I have tiny wrists so I can’t get away with those gigantic dinner plate watches that everyone loves. You can buy them HERE.
Mr DRG is quite the trainer connoisseur, having spent far too much time and money on them during the first wave of sneaker-freakery back in the day. Here’s his guest post on his latest Nike fixation…
I love the way that Nike has been updating classics from its archives over the last few years. Not such a stange statement you might think, but this comes from someone whose mantra is a fixed, ‘don’t mess with a classic, it’s classic for a reason’. Yet Nike is pulling it off, time and time again. Continue reading
I can’t normally abide hanky hems, but I’m making an exception for these divine mermaid silhouettes at Rodarte. Also… those bonkers boots!
As usual, the casting, hair, makeup and attitude is spot on. The classic all-American make-up and hair with those busy outfits. The pierced eyebrows!. Continue reading
I’m not all that familiar with Tim Coppens‘ work but I liked what I saw of his SS15 womenswear at NYFW. A little bit Wang, a little bit Tait, it’s continuing on the sports-luxe tip (that’s clearly got plenty of mileage yet) and looks luxurious, technically advanced and just commercial enough. Continue reading