THE DRG STYLE INDEX: JEFF KOONS, EBAY, SOTHEBY’S, SACAI, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. JEFF KOONS FOR H&M

Jeff-Koons-for-HM-handbag

So did you? Get your hands on the much-coveted Jeff Koons for H&M handbag? To celebrate the brand new H&M NYC flagship and the Jeff Koons retrospective at the Whitney, a one-off handbag adorned with Koons’ famous Balloon Dog was produced last week, sadly to the US market only. I wrote about it here. (And if you missed it, well you can always buy this signed bag for $1,500 on eBay… or, um, this empty carrier bag for $39. Yes, the world has indeed gone mad.)


2. EBAY TO STREAM SOTHEBY’S AUCTIONS

Sotheby's-ebay
At last! Some credibility to eBay’s luxury auctions, in the guise of a new hook-up with Sotheby’s. This autumn, eBay will live stream most of Sotheby’s New York auctions, allowing online bidding from eBay’s customers, with an aim to extend the partnership worldwide. With rival auctioneers Christie’s upping its own reach (it regularly reports from its auctions on Instagram), this is another sign of high art and fashion opening up to the masses.


3. SACAI X VANS

Sacai-Vans-Dover-Street-Market

Just in at Dover Street Market, this season-inappropriate collab between Vans and Sacai. I love the low-key styling of neutral-coloured suede on a low-top or hi-top skate shoe. The furry lining I like too, just maybe not quite yet…


4. CALVIN KLEIN JEANS X MYTHERESA

calvin-klein-sweatshirt-mytheresa-

Clearly it’s not just me who’s feeling the waves of Calvin Klein nostalgia. Last week saw MyTheresa’s capsule line of CK Jeans classics land onsite, as modelled by Kate Moss’s wee half sister. You can shop my edit below…

Denim master craft: Levi’s Lot No. 1

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

7 Levi's Lot No 1 made to order jeans

You’d think a couture gown or Savile Row suit was the ultimate luxury but I can think of something even better. Stationed at the back of Levi’s London flagship store is its recently introduced Lot No. 1 made–to-order jeans service. The answer to every denim connoisseur’s prayers, it’s a meticulously executed personal service that puts the customer at its heart. And I imagine it could become quite addictive.

It’s a truth universally acknowledged that however vast the choice of jeans available to us, the search still continues for The Ones. That’s certainly true in my case – however close I think I’ve come to perfection, I’ve still not quite reached denim nirvana. So Lot No. 1 exists for denim nitpickers like me. Let’s be clear, this is for lovers of deep detail, choice and provenance. (As such, it’s also reserved for those with deep pockets – the service comes at a flat cost of £500.) You start by choosing your denim from beautifully presented swatch books. “The real denim heads tend to choose Cone Mills denims (a raw selvedge American denim), that’s the choice of the denim purists,” explains my host, master tailor Lizzie Radcliffe, a Savile Row transplant whose love of utilitarian clothing brought her to Levi’s. “Our Japanese customers go for the heaviest weights, they like breaking them in.”

For each swatch you can see what it will look like after a certain number of washes, a crucial detail in the first stage of choosing your denim. Next you select your rivets and buttons, again the choice is yours (from seven colours and two styles), followed by colour of threads. There are 20 thread colours to choose from, with navy thread on navy denim considered to be the smartest option. And yes, you can even choose your colour of leather patch from a choice of twelve, including one vegan. I absolutely loved geeking out over all the finer details (four different choices of cotton for the inner pockets – because hey, these things matter!). I think the one-to-one learning process and the unhurried method of choosing your components are as much part of the package as the finished ‘made for you’ jeans.

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Having chosen the denim, threads and buttons, it’s time to work on the actual cut and fit of jeans. For some, this is the crux of the service. There are samples available in all waist and rise sizes, which can be tried on and then adjusted. “Slim, straight jeans are the most requested cut, although carrot jeans are popular too,” says Lizzie, who also points out the importance of discussing how they’ll be washed and worn because that affects how the jeans will sit on your waist. (“Most people say they won’t wash them for the first two months.”) The higher the rise, the lower the size seems to be the rule of thumb, and although clients are encouraged to try on all the different sizes, Lizzie is more than adept at sizing them up with a precision glance.

Surprisingly, the ratio of men to women using the service is a massive 95% male majority aged 25-40. “It’s men with sporty thighs, short guys, wider men,” says Lizzie. Which is understandable; if you’re a non-standard size, why wouldn’t you want made-to-measure jeans that you know will fit you perfectly? Of course, as well as money, you need time; this is no overnight rush job. Working mostly on her own, Lizzie takes 4-6 weeks to turn around a pair of jeans depending on how in demand the service is.

One friend pointed out that Levi’s is supposed to be egalitarian. It’s the ultimate in utility workwear after all, so doesn’t it go against the brand ethos to make elite £500 jeans? It’s a valid point but I don’t see it as a frippery. From the fabrics sourced from the best mills globally, to the vintage machines – stitching machines, overlockers, rivet and button attachers – you’re looking at the best of everything to do the job. As such, these jeans are made to last so aren’t a ‘fashion’ buy so much as a shrewd investment. One that will earn its keep cost-per-wear, and improve with age for years to come.

Levi’s Lot No. 1 is available at Levi’s Regent Street, London. For an appointment or information, email mastertailorlondon@levi.com

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THE DRG STYLE INDEX: HERMES LE BAIN; RAF SIMONS; LYST; FENWICK; MR HARE

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…


1. HERMES LAUNCHES LE BAIN

hermes-le-bain_garance-dore

So here you have the ultimate bathtime experience. Can you think of anything posher than Hermes hand wash or shampoo? Continue reading

Sport meets street at Net-a-Sporter

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Net-a-sporter-netasporter

Aaaaand here she is! The much-hyped Net-a-Sporter category has launched on Net-a-Porter and it has a pretty broad edit of product for the seriously sporty or the pretender who wants to look the part (guess which one I am?). Is it me or is the equestrian gear a little bit kinky? I’m all over those riding boots and prim ‘show shirts’. I’m also loving the primary-coloured one pieces from Lisa Marie Fernandez – the deep neckline and high cut legs are perfect.

Here’s an edit I prepared earlier, or click HERE to go to the site.

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: NIKE, HERMES, HARRODS, CHARLOTTE GAINSBOURG, MARC BY MARC JACOBS

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. NIKE’S NEW AIR MAX LUNAR1 IS HERE

Nike-Air-Max-Lunar1
Heads-up: Nike’s new Air Max Lunar1 trainer (£105) is here, an update on the original Air Max with new ultra-lightweight cushioning and mesh panels to make the cult shoe even more comfortable and flexible. I think they have done a great job adding in new technology while keeping the heritage good looks. Continue reading

BEAUTY BITS: BRITISH BEAUTY BLOGGER FOR M&S, STEAMCREAM, DIPTYQUE, PRO-AGING, TERRY DE GUNZBERG, MARILYN MONROE, BURT’S BEES, YAHOO BEAUTY

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

FIRST LOOK: BRITISH BEAUTY BLOGGER’S M&S MAKE-UP LINE

Processed with VSCOcam with hb1 presetHow exciting is this? Britain’s best beauty blogger (AKA British Beauty Blogger), Jane Cunningham has only gone and produced a makeup line with Marks & Spencer. It’s brilliant on lots of levels. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: LA GARCONNE, HERMES, LONGCHAMP, SHINOLA

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, featuring the brands currently buzzing on on my radar…

1. LA GARCONNE DOES BRICKS AND MORTAR

La-Garconne-Store-TriBeCa

Somehow this passed me by, but one of my favourite etailers has gone over to the B&M side. La Garconne, the purveyor of perfectly judged boyish womenswear has opened a physical store in TriBeCa, selling its covetable mix of Margiela, Acne Studios and The Row. Message to La Garconne: London needs you! Continue reading

The DRG Style Index: John Lobb, Paul Smith, Ebay

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, featuring the brands currently buzzing on on my radar…

1. PAULA GERBASE HEADS TO JOHN LOBB

paula-gerbase

This is rather exciting news for John Lobb. The British shoemaker, owned by Hermes, has appointed Paula Gerbase as artistic director. I don’t know the full story but I’m guessing the brand wants to expand beyond footwear (Berluti-style), and hiring a buzzy young luxury designer is a good way to do it. Continue reading

The Bicester Brit factor

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Bicester Village Designers Collective

What better way to spend a weekend than heading down Oxfordshire way to Bicester Village? If you do, you’ll be well rewarded, with the fifth British Fashion Council Designers’ Collective pop-up offering plentiful pickings of our celebrated womenswear talent. Curated by Yasmin Sewell, this year’s edit is the best yet (no filler!) and better still, it comes with a new art twist. The Royal Academy has jumped on board, so there are limited edition prints to buy from Royal Academians including Gary Hume and Grayson Perry. Continue reading

Retail report: The rebirth of Chiltern Street

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Cire-Trudon-Chiltern-Street

You’d be forgiven for thinking that the Chiltern Firehouse is the best thing about Chiltern Street, despite the fact that it’s not even properly open yet. While London’s It people have enjoyed countless dinners over the last few months, the hotel and restaurant don’t fully open for another couple of weeks (breakfast and lunch service is due to start at the end of June).

But there are plenty of other reasons to head to this genteel pocket of London, not least its new retail focus. If you skew to the types of brands sold on Mr Porter or Tres Bien and have a Scandi ‘lagom’ attitude to getting dressed, then this is your kind of shopping street. Continue reading

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