Sometimes you want theatrics and fanfare at a fashion show, other times, the simplest things can resonate. These sweatshirts at Calvin Klein Collection menswear AW14 are doing it for me…
We’re not even two weeks in and it’s already shaping up to be another good year for sneaker heads.
First, the surprise appearance of trainers (in thrice waxed leather or white velvet!) at Tom Ford’s AW14 menswear presentation. In fact the whole Tom Ford collection was casualised (below), so posh trainers aren’t too out of place…
Oh goody. In amongst all the tracksuity sport-luxe that’s dominating London Menswear for AW14, Burberry brings us the silk foulard. Slung jauntily around the shoulders of biker jackets and teddybear coats, it’s not the most macho look but it’s one I really love.
My favourite was a London map-print (old style, not Google-style thankfully), which also comes on a jazzy silk shirt. My other highlights were the handpainted grained leather Caban coats (£5,500), round-shouldered camel Chesterfield coat (£2,495) and split collared Aran sweater (£1,495).
The Mr Porter international sale went live today – at last! The US sale started a few days ago but I’ve had a look and there are still some crumbs left for the rest of us.
As usual, I’ve hunted out the pieces that I think work for both guys and girls, so here’s my edit of what we can steal. Personally, I’m all about the Raf Simons knit and the LVC pocket tee. A classic cotton pocket tee is stupidly hard to come by these days so I stockpile these when I see them…
CLICK THE PICTURES TO SHOP THE EDIT. THIS POST USES AFFILIATE LINKS
Top marks to UK tailors and shirtmakers T.M. Lewin and fashion collective The Sartorial 7 (who I’m afraid I had never heard of until now) for producing this very slick and handsome mini film. Seven young British guys suited up and going for pie and mash should look cheesy as hell but the cinematography by Jack Flynn is beautiful. Continue reading
“During fashion week, everyone looks like a peacock. And there we were wanting something so basic.”
The Webster boutique owner, Laure Heriard Dubreuil talking about buying mens shirts in the Wall Street Journal resonated with me.
Watch the accompanying video too:
STEFANO TONCHI ON INTO THE GLOSS
Oh my nosiness knows no bounds. I love Into The Gloss for its snoops into the bathroom cabinets of fashiony women and now it’s been sniffing around the men’s grooming shelves too. Here’s W magazine’s Stefano Tonchi’s thoughts on his grooming routine (Hmmm, Only 6 products but still)… Continue reading
Oh look, Mr DRG’s been fantasy shopping again! Here’s a look at his autumn picks…
Plaid jacket, £845, Saint Laurent
Pure Brando in ‘On The Waterfront’, this is a great take on that classic look, but with a slightly longer body and sharper lines. Just the thing to keep out the chill on November 5th.
Leather snaffle loafers, £385, Gucci
Having worn Gucci loafers on and off for the last 20+ years, I coudn’t resist a pair of these recently (and that’s despite the distasterous purchase of a raffia pair back in the summer, which didn’t wear at all well). Pleasingly, Gucci has reverted to the classic 1953 shape, having wandered from this in various ways over the years, and as with most things in life, the original is the best. The only question I have is when and why did they decide to rename the snaffle a horse-bit?
Navy baby alpaca-blend coat £1,440, MP di Massimo Piombo
A beautiful double-breasted overcoat that’s clearly heavily inspired by the late 50s and early 60s. This is the sort of thing that I imagine the smartest original mods may have worn while frequenting Soho’s smokey jazz clubs.
Hammered silver card case, £900, Bunney
An elegant, if extravagant, card holder from the very talented Mr Bunney. Clearly a luxe item, it manages to be decidedly un-bling and played down due to the hammer-tone finish. Andrew, if you’re reading this, a Zippo case in the same would be rather nice…
Black Pepper shaving oil, £18, Molton Brown
A recent discovery, and one that I can highly recommend. Having used Kiehl’s products for years, the company inexplicably decided to cease manufacturing its Close Shavers shaving oil. Initially peeved, I was forced to research alternatives, and this led me to the Molton Brown oil, which I’m actually finding to be a far better option for me. Brands take note – you risk losing loyal consumers when you stop a popular product line without immediately offering a replacement!
Trainers, £75, Nike Air Pegasus
I’m not often seen in a running shoe these days, but the Nike Pegasus has a special place in my heart. Back in ’85 I was the proud owner of a pair of graphite and silver Pegasus GX, and these – together with the Internatlionalist – were the shoes to have, or at least they were in my part of the world. I love the wide-weave mesh on this update, and the new colourway feels both authentic and modern. Top marks to the Nike heritage dept.
Best casting and styling ever from Haider Ackermann’s first menswear show. Early trends coming through for menswear ss14 include structured tunic tees, 50s Harrington jackets, post-pop graphics and sloganeering, lots of leather, extreme trouser shapes (super-wide peg at Topman Design, meggings at Gucci, culottes at Jil Sander) and more wonkiness following aw13. Plus on the hair front, lots of fabulous quiffy dos!