Sorry PRs but my big highlight of Paris Fashion Week wasn’t the shows or the parties but the new exhibition, Dries Van Noten: Inspirations. Showing at the Arts Decoratifs Museum until 31st August, Dries Van Noten and curator Pamela Golbin have coincidentally created an assemblage of exhibits that encompasses a number of my own favourite themes.
Downstairs is big on the foppish overlaps of masculinity and femininity, the romance of youth subcultures and a fascination with British monarchy and society. As you enter the exhibition through Azuma Makoto’s giant floral fantasia, you’re greeted by a room wallpapered with pop culture references. From camp Divine posters to Interview magazine covers, these are easily recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 80s. Dries Van Noten’s early designs from his student days at the Antwerp Royal Academy (his 1981 sun motif coat looks especially contemporary) sit alongside influential pieces by Kenzo, Mugler, Versace and Worlds End-era Westwood, culled from the museum’s own archive.
The subsequent vitrines are grouped in themes such as ‘Iconclast’, ‘Graphic’ and ‘Butterflies’ and display seemingly disparate items – a film clip, artwork or ancient textile piece – alongside examples from a chosen Dries Van Noten collection, to demonstrate his creative through process. It’s funny to think this is the first time a designer exhibition (it’s not billed as a retrospective) has been presented this way because it really makes a lot of sense in revealing the common passions and aesthetics of the brand and the man. Continue reading
There’s a little bit of a buzz around Detroit at the moment – the once-vibrant-now-less-so motoring and manufacturing city.
Shinola is a brand at the heart of Detroit’s resurgence that I discovered last year. It specialises in watches and leathergoods crafted from leather produced by Detroit’s Horween Leather Company – one of America’s oldest tanneries. Continue reading
Top marks to UK tailors and shirtmakers T.M. Lewin and fashion collective The Sartorial 7 (who I’m afraid I had never heard of until now) for producing this very slick and handsome mini film. Seven young British guys suited up and going for pie and mash should look cheesy as hell but the cinematography by Jack Flynn is beautiful. Continue reading
Must-see film alert: Everybody Street is a documentary about the important players of New York street photography. Featuring Eliott Erwitt, Bruce Davidson, Martha Cooper, Jamel Shabazz and a number of others, this sounds like a can’t-miss history, fashion and photography lesson all rolled into one. Continue reading
Satisfying my love of all things cut-n-paste and collagy, Emma Cook’s AW13 collection has just dropped at Net-a-Porter.com. To celebrate, do enjoy this playful mini-film bursting with trippy cut-out flowers, dinosaurs, crystals, tigers and stellar constellations that reflect the surrealist influences of the collection. (Then nip over to Net-a-Porter to get the look…)
Emma Cook satin bomber, £400
Who doesn’t love a good, heartwarming music documentary? If you enjoyed Searching for Sugarman, you must look out for The Heart Of Bruno Wizard. I caught a screening at the East End Film Festival and am impatiently waiting for distribution news so I can see it again.
Bruno is one of those people that I’ve seen out and about and chatted to over the years but never quite understood what he does. The Heart Of Bruno Wizard is his story, told by first-time director Elisabeth Rasmussen. Of course, this isn’t really a music documentary at all but a heartfelt portrait of an artist. We follow his story from punk provocateur (he called his band The Homosxuals ‘to keep the record companies away’ – brilliant!) to artist, political activist and displaced Londoner. Cheesy as it sounds, The heart of Bruno does indeed come across. He’s an old school poet for the people in the same mould as Joe Strummer who never sold out and still carries his message in whatever art medium he can, to whoever will listen.
There are some excellent talking heads featured in the film, including fellow Warren Street squatters Stephen Jones and Marilyn. The music and archive home movie footage are fantastic too. You can get a taste in the trailer here…
I’ve seen clips of this on Youtube before but never the whole film. Enjoy!
I don’t know anything about this film other than it’s a documentary by Phil Strongman and the trailer has just gone up on Youtube. It features Vivienne Westwood, Adam Ant, Tracey Emin, Boy George and a host of other McLaren associates. I’m slightly obsessed by the hugely influential punk provocateur so this will be a big must-see for me. If you have any more info, do tell…
“I talked to my friend’s 17-year-old daughter about the slang that teenagers use, and this lovely young lady explained that all her friends call one another ‘bitches, sluts and whores’.”
Sofia Coppola, Red Magazine, on researching teen language for The Bling Ring
A successful film director who’s intelligent, glamorous and female? Let’s face it, it doesn’t happen often. So the glossies must have been gagging to get Sofia Coppola for their covers. The July issue of Red features a cover plus six pages of Coppola (sporting Miu Miu, Valentino and Chanel), in which she shares her own astute observations of celebrity culture and modern-day youth culture.
On researching LA teenagers for The Bling Ring, she said, “I talked to my friend’s 17-year-old daughter about the slang that teenagers use, and this lovely young lady explained that all her friends call one another ‘bitches, sluts and whores’. I also went to clubs in LA with all the girls dressed up in miniskirts and sky-high shoes. That was pretty exotic. Everyone was texting, taking pictures, and I tried to put as much of that in the film as possible. It was almost sci-fi, this idea that living does not count unless you are documenting it. All those things interest me and say so much about our culture, and what is emphasised as important.”
The July issue of Red is out on 5th June.