The final day of London Fashion Week was all about youthful ideals and teen romance, kicking off at 9am with Marques’Almeida. This duo has slowly and steadily built an appealing aesthetic that riffs on tattered-edged insousiance of a bygone kind. While earlier collections were rooted in nineties grunge, AW14 takes its essence from New York’s Chelsea Hotel and its famous 1970s inhabitants. The models’ Patti Smith-style bird’s nest hair matched the fuzzy furry stoles and shoes, while the colour palette was surprisingly upbeat – complemented by primary-coloured MAC paint ringing the eyes. Continue reading
As much as we all love a Pilotto print or a Kane curveball, for day-to-day most editors I know are happiest in a Margaret Howell sweater or the perennial favourite ‘crisp white shirt’. These we got this morning (in *gasp* – a new, bigger venue) with corduroy tailoring and full skirts, accessorised with calf length socks and midi heels…
New York Fashion Week is in full swing and London editors are gearing up for LFW which is three days away. With IMG and various New York designers rethinking their blogger strategy, the conversation continues to rage around the current and future role of fashion weeks and their associated ‘circus’.
I took part in a panel discussion on this very subject a couple of weeks ago with WGSN. We did it as a live Google Hangout and the panel also included Quynh Mai, founder of digital agency Moving Image & Content, WGSN’s senior arts editor Elle Hankinson, Fashionista’s editor-in-chief Lauren Indvik, and was hosted by WGSN’s senior digital media editor, Rachel Arthur. Continue reading
Loving everything about Coach AW14, from the colour palette, to the lighting, to the all-American photo backdrops (by Joel Sternfeld) to those killer clunky boots. A well played debut by Stuart Vevers for Coach’s first RTW collection…
I could write a thesis-length post on Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s epic joint AW14 collection, but I won’t. Instead I recommend you read all about in Tim Blanks’ Style.com report. Or just enjoy the pictures. Suffice to say, the conceptual art student is alive and kicking on the catwalk and if you love collage, Pollock-meets-Clash paint splatters, Lichtenstein primary colours and provocative wordplay, then it’s all here for ya, wrapped up in dun-coloured cashmere and nubby tweed. Continue reading
I’ve enjoyed the modernised African references that have come through so far on the AW14 menswear runways – notably at Agi & Sam, A Sauvage and Stella Jean. I’m hoping we’ll see more at the forthcoming women’s shows. As much as I like traditional kente cloth and wax-style prints, it’s good to see a more varied approach to ‘Africa’ that moves on from Masai beading and casually draped robes. Continue reading
Sometimes you want theatrics and fanfare at a fashion show, other times, the simplest things can resonate. These sweatshirts at Calvin Klein Collection menswear AW14 are doing it for me…
Oh goody. In amongst all the tracksuity sport-luxe that’s dominating London Menswear for AW14, Burberry brings us the silk foulard. Slung jauntily around the shoulders of biker jackets and teddybear coats, it’s not the most macho look but it’s one I really love.
My favourite was a London map-print (old style, not Google-style thankfully), which also comes on a jazzy silk shirt. My other highlights were the handpainted grained leather Caban coats (£5,500), round-shouldered camel Chesterfield coat (£2,495) and split collared Aran sweater (£1,495).
Before we head into Menswear Month, here’s my tip for stealth womenswear revival of the year. Iceberg is one of those brands (like Versace, Kenzo, Moschino) which once enjoyed quite the youthful cult following. Things went off the boil for a while but now there’s a new creative director in place.
Alexis Martial (previously at Givenchy and Paco Rabanne) showed collections for SS14 and Resort 2014 that ticked a lot of ‘want list’ boxes. Continue reading
It’s easy to forget that Marc Jacob’s early shows for Vuitton were much more pared back than what we see now. There are hardly any catwalk pictures online from that time but I absolutely love this video of the AW 1998 Louis Vuitton show (above), featuring Naomi Campbell, Kirsten Owen and a demure-looking Gisele. Any of these looks would easily look current today.