As LFW becomes ever busier, with shows, presentations, retail events and launches at Somerset House and beyond, sometimes help is needed to navigate the never-ending schedule. This season I’m working with Amex to experience all they have to offer at Fashion Week, which is where Amex Insiders come in. Continue reading
Bam! That’s the sound of London Fashion Week going off with a bang. Well it did for me, because my first show was London College of Fashion’s MA show – its first as part of LFW. The show was edited to the ten strongest collections, of which my favourite was from Na Di, a menswear graduate whose punchy printed tailoring mashed up traditional references with hiphop attitude. Continue reading
Well who’d have thunk it? Six years ago today, I started a fashion blog. This very one, in fact, albeit on a Blogspot platform with a slightly clunky white-text-on-black-background layout. If you scroll back far enough, you can see my early posts; embarrassing though they are, I’ve not deleted them as it’s good to remember the journey.
My six year anniversary coincides with a pithy New York Times T Magazine story by Suzy Menkes lamenting the blog mob and the changes in fashion media and critiquing. Do read it, it’s certainly thought provoking. Alas, Menkes does come across as slightly jaded in her disapproval. Flagging up the common practice of ‘bloggers’ (read: the Fashion Week style blogger elite) who get photographed in next season’s looks, often gifted by designers in exchange for coverage, she reminds us that real reporters don’t play the gifting game (or ‘bribery’ as she puts it). It’s a funny one I admit. On the one hand, why not help give young designers exposure by wearing their clothes, if it will give them a leg-up and boost your visual presence as well? On the other hand, when the pre- and post-show peacocking starts to get more attention than the shows themselves, then that clearly signals a change in how things are working. Is it dumbing down though? or is it just an evolution in how fashion is seen and consumed now?
Six years ago, no-one even considered any of this stuff. As a phenomenon, it simply didn’t exist yet. Instagram didn’t exist, Vine didn’t exist, Twitter was in its infancy and Anna Dello Russo was just another jobbing fashion editor. How would fashion have weathered the recessions were it not for fashion blogs, Fashion Week street style and the powerful role they played in opening up the fashion industry to the masses? More pertinent still; where will fashion, blogging and the street style strutters be in another six years time? I guess that’s for us to witness, while documenting the process…
Thanks for the last six years of support!
Image: Stefania Yarhi/Textstyles – NYT
This season I’m doing my LFW ticket requests super-early. I’m looking forward to Nicole Farhi (first season with Jo Sykes at the design helm), Topshop Unique (I wasn’t bowled over with the last collection), Marques’Almeida, Ostwald Helgason, Lucas Nascimento and Thomas Tait. Plus my new favourite, Claire Barrow, who is showing again as part of Fashion East. Here’s her SS13 collection of illustrative ‘punk pisshead’ separates inspired by enigmatic rebels. Note the casting, styling, hair and make-up too – all outstanding. (P.S. she just emailed me to say ‘there’s an online store coming soon’….)
Prim kinkiness, kinky primness. So say Celine (pre-fall 2013) and J.W.Anderson (AW13 men)…
Can you forecast next season’s trends based on three days in one city? A little. Two stood out for me at London Collections: Men this week – neither very surprising. Menswear trends are a bit more predictable than womenswear because (as a rule) men like to shop for the familiar rather than the new. So we saw a ton of youth subculture references, plus many nods to Great British heritage and manufacturing. Continue reading
In the main, I like my menswear shows colourful, casual and youthful. So thank you Topman Design for your intrepid traveller theme, incorporating hi-vis berry and citrus-hued outerwear (above), including many variations of furry hooded parka (is the cropped parka the new cropped puffer?) and some clever backpacks dripping with tech-cessory hooks and holders. Continue reading
I was so bowled over by the styling in the Dries Van Noten show, I thought I’d break it down in a blog post. Taken separately, each piece of the Dries collection is a beautiful, timeless workhorse. Weightless tea dresses, wrap jackets, sheer plaid shirts and patterned pants. Nothing new there. Put them together just so, with complementary hair, make-up and hands-in-pocket attitude and you have a bucketload of reasons why everyone (including me) will be referencing DVN this season, consciously or not. Continue reading
“I always say that I would rather spend a week at Rikers Island or the hospital than do Fashion Week. Don’t you think it’s like school? It’s sort of divided up into periods and it has mean girls and you go from one class to another. It’s the worst.”
Lynn Yaeger, New York Observer, 2009