Loving everything about Coach AW14, from the colour palette, to the lighting, to the all-American photo backdrops (by Joel Sternfeld) to those killer clunky boots. A well played debut by Stuart Vevers for Coach’s first RTW collection…
I could write a thesis-length post on Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s epic joint AW14 collection, but I won’t. Instead I recommend you read all about in Tim Blanks’ Style.com report. Or just enjoy the pictures. Suffice to say, the conceptual art student is alive and kicking on the catwalk and if you love collage, Pollock-meets-Clash paint splatters, Lichtenstein primary colours and provocative wordplay, then it’s all here for ya, wrapped up in dun-coloured cashmere and nubby tweed. Continue reading
I’ve enjoyed the modernised African references that have come through so far on the AW14 menswear runways – notably at Agi & Sam, A Sauvage and Stella Jean. I’m hoping we’ll see more at the forthcoming women’s shows. As much as I like traditional kente cloth and wax-style prints, it’s good to see a more varied approach to ‘Africa’ that moves on from Masai beading and casually draped robes. Continue reading
Sometimes you want theatrics and fanfare at a fashion show, other times, the simplest things can resonate. These sweatshirts at Calvin Klein Collection menswear AW14 are doing it for me…
Oh goody. In amongst all the tracksuity sport-luxe that’s dominating London Menswear for AW14, Burberry brings us the silk foulard. Slung jauntily around the shoulders of biker jackets and teddybear coats, it’s not the most macho look but it’s one I really love.
My favourite was a London map-print (old style, not Google-style thankfully), which also comes on a jazzy silk shirt. My other highlights were the handpainted grained leather Caban coats (£5,500), round-shouldered camel Chesterfield coat (£2,495) and split collared Aran sweater (£1,495).
Before we head into Menswear Month, here’s my tip for stealth womenswear revival of the year. Iceberg is one of those brands (like Versace, Kenzo, Moschino) which once enjoyed quite the youthful cult following. Things went off the boil for a while but now there’s a new creative director in place.
Alexis Martial (previously at Givenchy and Paco Rabanne) showed collections for SS14 and Resort 2014 that ticked a lot of ‘want list’ boxes. Continue reading
It’s easy to forget that Marc Jacob’s early shows for Vuitton were much more pared back than what we see now. There are hardly any catwalk pictures online from that time but I absolutely love this video of the AW 1998 Louis Vuitton show (above), featuring Naomi Campbell, Kirsten Owen and a demure-looking Gisele. Any of these looks would easily look current today.
Ugh, I won’t be wearing any of these mules for SS14. Shan’t, shan’t, shan’t!
Burberry showed a lot of coats on it’s Spring-Summer 2014 runway. Of course, they were light spring coats, not heavy wool ones. And they were knitted, rather than waterproofs.
As is Burberry’s way, you can order these now online, meaning they will work for autumn as well as spring.
Here are three of my favourites – you have until September 30th to get your order in:
Burberry knitted merino wool trench
A new leathergoods name on my radar: La Contrie. It’s not cheap, it’s all bespoke and beautifully made – think Hermes, and you’re on the right track. The simple shapes in luxe skins stood out for me, particularly this crocodile bag…