Fashion shows

Petit Déjeuner – The Many Faces of Phyllis Wang



Part 2 of my DRG film strand, Petit Déjeuner takes us to the fashionable heart of Paris for coffee and comedy chat with my favourite raconteur…

Phyllis Wang
and I are balancing in heels on the back of her sofa, checking ourselves out in the mantelpiece mirror. We’ve just been trying on Céline shoes, talking about her comedy club, her love of Parisian life, her Asian mum and the joy of socks. She has downed her third coffee of the day. Although it’s afternoon, it’s technically breakfast time for this Taiwanese-American Parisienne, who works nights as a stand up comedienne, moonlighting as a fashion collaborator between shows. (more…)



Models remember 1990s Helmut Lang



1990s helmut lang
Not to get all ‘it was better in the old days’, but thank you Vogue Runway for these personal recollections of some of Helmut Lang’s best shows. Read what Jeny Howorth, Elfie Semotan (top left) and Stella Tennant said about modelling in those unforgettable 1990s shows here. (And enjoy the catwalk pics and soon-to-come videos here…)

Here’s Elfie Semotan…
“Helmut had special ties with a lot of the models and almost everyone who worked for him backstage. (more…)



Why duvet coats?



Norma Kamali sleeping bag coat

In case you hadn’t noticed, duvet coats, puffer* jackets, padded parkas, call them what you will, were all over the AW16 runways. Why duvet coats? The short answer; because it’s always bloody cold! The long answer; well, how long have you got?

Before the AW16 shows kicked off, supersized sleeping bag coats were already on my radar, having seen the above Norma Kamali example on Instagram (side note: do give Magazine_fan a follow if you’re a vintage fash-mag nut). And then the floodgates opened with outpourings of padded down goodness by everyone from Stuart Vevers at Coach to Alexander McQueen (a peachy satin butterfly-embroidered duvet coat fit for a princess), to the Stella McCartney one most likely to be copied by the high street.

padded jacket by Chen Peng in teen vogue (more…)



Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16



Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne westwood aw16 by Kevin Tachman

The above jacket was my favourite from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16 show. It’s an amalgamation of a few ideas, fusing Kronthaler’s Austrian ancestry with British tailoring and a gender-neutral sensibility. The embellishment on the jacket on the left is from antler horns upcycled from antique hunting trophies and was triggered by Kronthaler’s trip back to his Tyrolean homeland at Christmas. (more…)