Fashion shows

AW17 Trend Report: Margaret Howell



Margaret Howell Aw17
There was a louche scruffiness to Margaret Howell for AW17 that I really liked. Trousers were boy-cut or cuffed with a button and worn a bit too short with retro normcore trainers. Shirts were half in, half out, but that’s as far as the scruffiness went. I mean, this is Margaret Howell, so they were still starched and properly pressed. (more…)



Burberry’s cultural commerce



3 Burberry makers house february 2017
No sooner had yesterday’s Burberry show ended than emails started pinging into my inbox from Matches Fashion and Selfridges. New-in within seconds were the voluminous-sleeved lace blouses, asymmetrical cut-out sweatshirts, Portrait bags and deconstructed cable knits.

Not far from the show venue, in the Regent street flagship store, a similar scenario was underway. DRG’s retail editor Alison Bishop WhatsApp-ed me with a video clip of VIP clients shopping up a storm, swarming around the bags and trench coats. (more…)



Calvin Klein AW17: God bless America



Calvin Klein AW17

First look at Raf Simons’ vision for Calvin Klein AW17. The first look that came out was perfection, a red-white-and-blue ensemble of red piped flat-front pants with blue tucked-in felted shirt and white poloneck, plus steel-capped cowboy boots. Very clean, direct and optimistic in its message. The show continued in a similar vein, an ode to American classics, including artisanal quilting inside parka jackets, Ralph-Lauren-meets-Helmut-Lang double-breasted camel coats, (more…)



Boys and girls, play nicely on the runway



paul smith aw17 unified runway - photo by Sonny Vandevelde

Have you got your head around pre-collections? See Now Buy Now? Good! Next up, ‘unified runway shows’, AKA the gender blending of showing both womenswear and menswear collections on the same catwalk, potentially eliminating the need for separate menswear and womenswear fashion weeks in the future. (more…)