What to steal from the Margaret Howell menswear 2015 show? Mainly the coats – dun-coloured peacoats, a structured trench, and the single breasted mac I’ve been looking for for yonks. As always, I look for details. Such as the length of the trousers – a bit too short to show off contrast-coloured socks; the tucked in jumpers, and the fine-knit poloneck worn under a suit jacket. All elements to adopt right now…
Big boys blouses, double breasted coats, swishy scarves and fur-lined slippers. Yes please to all of the above and well done Alessandro Michele for giving Gucci a cooler (if slightly Saint Laurent-ified) feel. Apparently he and his team worked around the clock to completely redesign the SS15 collection, after Frida Giannini’s swifter-than-expected exit from Gucci… Continue reading
As with last season, Mrs Prada ponders the relationship between men and women, showing both menswear and womenswear on the same stage for Prada AW15. “What are the unexpected possibilities, the various relationships that may occur between the way men and women can or would dress? The way they represent themselves? This is a subject always under investigation.”
My main takeaways from the Prada menswear AW15 show are bare legs and bovver boots (for girls) and Paul Weller hair (for boys). Plus, who’s going to be first to wear their sleeves turned up just so…? Continue reading
The coats! The coats! The Dior pre-fall 2015 pics are in and it’s all about the coats. And they’re not prissy couture coats either but outdoor-friendly(ish), utility-luxe offerings for rainy walks on the Welsh hills or motorbike rides around Tokyo. Or so we’re led to believe.
I love the storm coats in shiny Stone Island-esque materials for chucking on and off, and especially the wet-look A-line zippy affair juxtaposed with snazzy sequins (sorry, pailettes). And when the familiar Dior structured cuts come into play, they’re reimagined in a younger, streetier finish than we’re used to. Continue reading
The end of a lovely chapter at Hermes ss15. I’ve enjoyed Christophe Lemaire’s vision at the house but I’m champing at the bit to see what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has in store too. Some called Lemaire’s final collection for Hermes a palate-cleanser* from the 70s overload seen pretty much everywhere else. Continue reading
Picture the scene: on arrival at the pap-packed arch of the Musee du Louvre courtyard, you’re greeted by the Dior show venue – a giant mirrored cube. Could this be construed as the ultimate symbol of our modern, narcissistic times? A reflection of us in all our peacock-y finery? This I wondered as I joined pretty much every other show-goer in taking an obligatory selfie to share immediately (cos if you didn’t record it and instantly share it, then you clearly weren’t really there). Continue reading
Slowly falling in love with Jil Sander again. Incoming creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga showed his debut for SS15 and I really like the youthful, school uniformness of the stiff shirting, wrap skirts and cool colour palette.
Someone in Bon magazine (Yasmin Sewell I think) said a while ago that they doubted the relevance of Sander now that other brands have stepped into the Sander space (Celine, The Row). But this younger take could appeal to a new customer, and I always like to support the underdog… Continue reading
This post is a little late because I had so much post-LFW catching up to do.
Simone Rocha is a favourite for Londoners and has finely tuned her unique communion-chic aesthetic. I loved how the models’ heads were swathed in sheer, flower-scattered voiles. Also, those pink lace-ups… Continue reading