Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.
Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. Continue reading
I’m in Paris for a few days to do some shows, some re-sees, some window shopping and hopefully to get a first look at the Dries Van Noten exhibition. To prep myself I swung by the Dries shop in Quai Malaquais. I managed to take a sneaky photo – isn’t it gorgeous? Continue reading
So London Fashion Week is done and dusted (Do check out my daily highlights HERE, HERE, HERE and HERE) but I’m not quite finished yet. As part of my partnership with Swatch, I’m ending on this roundup of forthcoming AW14 trends. You can also head over to the Swatch Facebook page to watch the videos we filmed at Somerset House… Continue reading
The final day of London Fashion Week was all about youthful ideals and teen romance, kicking off at 9am with Marques’Almeida. This duo has slowly and steadily built an appealing aesthetic that riffs on tattered-edged insousiance of a bygone kind. While earlier collections were rooted in nineties grunge, AW14 takes its essence from New York’s Chelsea Hotel and its famous 1970s inhabitants. The models’ Patti Smith-style bird’s nest hair matched the fuzzy furry stoles and shoes, while the colour palette was surprisingly upbeat – complemented by primary-coloured MAC paint ringing the eyes. Continue reading
As much as we all love a Pilotto print or a Kane curveball, for day-to-day most editors I know are happiest in a Margaret Howell sweater or the perennial favourite ‘crisp white shirt’. These we got this morning (in *gasp* – a new, bigger venue) with corduroy tailoring and full skirts, accessorised with calf length socks and midi heels…
New York Fashion Week is in full swing and London editors are gearing up for LFW which is three days away. With IMG and various New York designers rethinking their blogger strategy, the conversation continues to rage around the current and future role of fashion weeks and their associated ‘circus’.
I took part in a panel discussion on this very subject a couple of weeks ago with WGSN. We did it as a live Google Hangout and the panel also included Quynh Mai, founder of digital agency Moving Image & Content, WGSN’s senior arts editor Elle Hankinson, Fashionista’s editor-in-chief Lauren Indvik, and was hosted by WGSN’s senior digital media editor, Rachel Arthur. Continue reading
Loving everything about Coach AW14, from the colour palette, to the lighting, to the all-American photo backdrops (by Joel Sternfeld) to those killer clunky boots. A well played debut by Stuart Vevers for Coach’s first RTW collection…
I could write a thesis-length post on Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s epic joint AW14 collection, but I won’t. Instead I recommend you read all about in Tim Blanks’ Style.com report. Or just enjoy the pictures. Suffice to say, the conceptual art student is alive and kicking on the catwalk and if you love collage, Pollock-meets-Clash paint splatters, Lichtenstein primary colours and provocative wordplay, then it’s all here for ya, wrapped up in dun-coloured cashmere and nubby tweed. Continue reading
I’ve enjoyed the modernised African references that have come through so far on the AW14 menswear runways – notably at Agi & Sam, A Sauvage and Stella Jean. I’m hoping we’ll see more at the forthcoming women’s shows. As much as I like traditional kente cloth and wax-style prints, it’s good to see a more varied approach to ‘Africa’ that moves on from Masai beading and casually draped robes. Continue reading
Sometimes you want theatrics and fanfare at a fashion show, other times, the simplest things can resonate. These sweatshirts at Calvin Klein Collection menswear AW14 are doing it for me…