For someone who pretty much lives in Levi’s and jumpers I’m weirdly drawn to multi-textured and multi-layered dressing. Especially when it’s expertly and poetically styled. This must explain my attraction to LFW designers Toga and Phoebe English, both of whom have secured a well deserved spot on the presentation schedule in recent seasons.
Toga‘s presentations are great because they’re staged really beautifully with models on plinths so you can go up close for a proper look. The styling is always impeccable with this Japanese brand, whose bags and shoes have as much cult status as the clothes. For AW15 we get the usual wonky proportions and multi-textured approach that I love, with long dresses worn over check trousers, and tailored tactile coats belted over midi skirts over sheer gauzy trousers.
Fabrics are important for Toga’s designer, Yasuko Furuta. She develops them herself, which is why the price point is high, but the return on investment is originality and the type of pieces that you want to hang onto. My favourite element is the integral straps that let you sling a cardigan or a coat half-on-half-off across the body…
Phoebe English is another designer I admire for her clever consistency. She also produces ‘360-degree’ clothes that have as much interesting stuff going on at the back as at the front. For her AW15 presentation at Somerset House she showed her sheer fishnet skirts and trousers with plain dress shirts and simple bandeaus. Everything came in black or white apart from an explosion of flesh-coloured rubber ruffles. Styled together it looked complex and arty but look closer and you realise that these pieces stand up on their own and are surprisingly adaptable.
WORDS AND IMAGES: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
This season’s London Fashion Week was big on straight-to-consumer ‘buy it now’ thinking. But typically, when you really need to buy it now, there’s no such tech to be seen. Ahhh I know, first world blogger probs, eh?
Both Margaret Howell and Paul Smith AW15 really did have lots of things that I’m gagging for in my wardrobe right now. I played Margaret Howell bingo with my seat mate, scoring points for every appearance of a tweed coat, masculine trouser or white shirt. But jokes aside, the appeal of Margaret Howell from season to season is the nuanced attention to detail. There’s a host of signature elements but they chop and change, so it’s not as predictable as we like to think.
Next season’s Margaret Howell woman is extremely refined, from her neatly tucked-in cable knits to her longer length skirts and kilts (kilts are definitely trending for AW15 btw), worn with Falke ankle socks and patent flat pumps (no bingo point for me here, I predicted loafers or brogues). On my want list are the macs and blazers and I must also mention the shoulder bags – substantial satchels in luxe black and tan leather.
From Paul Smith it was the coats that did it for me – tailored masculine ones in charcoal grey or oversized muted checks. I also loved the boyish trouser suits and long culottes, styled with thick-heeled boots and scruffy ponytails…
WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
Images: Margaret Howell; WWD (Paul Smith)
Dream coats (and trousers, sweaters and dresses) at DKNY AW15. This has to be my favourite DKNY collection in years. The hair, make-up, colour palette and styling (Donna said this is for the ‘ageless working woman‘) are perfect… Continue reading
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. TEN YEARS OF GARETH PUGH
Was it really ten years ago that Gareth Pugh first showed in London? It certainly was, and he’s marking the occasion by returning to show on the LFW schedule. There’s also a retrospective exhibition, showing at the Galleria Melissa store in Covent Garden from February 11th until May. Continue reading
What to steal from the Margaret Howell menswear 2015 show? Mainly the coats – dun-coloured peacoats, a structured trench, and the single breasted mac I’ve been looking for for yonks. As always, I look for details. Such as the length of the trousers – a bit too short to show off contrast-coloured socks; the tucked in jumpers, and the fine-knit poloneck worn under a suit jacket. All elements to adopt right now…
Big boys blouses, double breasted coats, swishy scarves and fur-lined slippers. Yes please to all of the above and well done Alessandro Michele for giving Gucci a cooler (if slightly Saint Laurent-ified) feel. Apparently he and his team worked around the clock to completely redesign the SS15 collection, after Frida Giannini’s swifter-than-expected exit from Gucci… Continue reading